1650 Keeps Frying Coils - Page 2

J-Mech · #11 04-10-2018, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

As I remember with a points system, you need a coil with around 5 ohms or else you need to wire in a resistor to the+ side. 3 ohms would be more suited to electronic ignition.
Just went through that when I had to replace the coil on an off branded tractor with a KT 19 on it which calls for the exact same points and condenser as a cast iron single cylinder Kohler.

The target is 4ohms.... 3 seems low to me too, but I'm always skeptical. Maybe his DVOM is cheap....

Kohler uses an internal resisted coil. No need for an external resistor.

darkminion_17 · #12 04-10-2018, 01:40 PM

Maybe a bad ignition switch, with the key off, see if you are getting 12 volts at the coil.

vr4Legacy · #13 04-10-2018, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Maybe his DVOM is cheap....

It is middle of the road I'd say, certainly not high end. And I'm going off memory. It may have been a little higher. I'll double check the good one tonight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Maybe a bad ignition switch, with the key off, see if you are getting 12 volts at the coil.

I checked that already. Thought maybe that could be an issue, no voltage when off.

R Bedell · #14 04-10-2018, 04:21 PM

In my world, you have one of three (3) situations.
(A) You have the wrong Ignition Coil
(B) The Ignition Coil is getting excessive voltage (13.7 VDC Max)
(C) The Ignition Coil (incl points and condenser) is not wired correctly.

vr4Legacy · #15 04-10-2018, 06:45 PM

Tested battery at idle, getting 12.7v with a little fluctuation. Most was 13.1. Retested the battery with ignition off and got 13.03 before starting (freshly charged battery) and right at 12.7 after running for a minute.

Went to throttle it up and ran out of gas

and of course my can is dry too.

I’ll get some gas tomorrow and test full throttle if everyone thinks that’s the next step.

vr4Legacy · #16 04-11-2018, 07:07 PM

Got some gas and tested the battery at idle then about 3/4 throttle. It went from 12.7 up to 14.4v at 3/4 throttle. So I shut it right off. I’m assuming I have a bad regulator?

Thoughts on this one?
Stens 435-081 Voltage Regulator, Fits Kohler: Ch5, Ch6, Ch11-Ch15, Cv11-Cv15, M8-M20 and Mv16-Mv20, Use with 055-489 Stator Kit, 3 Terminals In A Row https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G65X4Q..._zpPZAb30FZ1M2

Thanks everyone for the insight. Hoping to get this thing buttoned up before Saturday and hopefully do some tilling before the rain hits, again.

twoton · #17 04-11-2018, 08:21 PM

You know we need some pictures Jason...

vr4Legacy · #18 04-11-2018, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton

You know we need some pictures Jason...

I keep meaning to put up a thread with my progress. Been working little by little over the winter. Very good feeling getting this thing fired up, knowing it sat for quite a while before I got it. Pretty sure I’m the 2nd owner. I had to do a lot of small things and diagnosing.

I’ll get one up soon. But for now, here she is last fall, along with the tiller I only intended in buying. But the 1650 just jumped on the trailer. I swear!

dodge trucker · #19 04-11-2018, 10:28 PM

14.4v is not that bad, you basically have an automotive electrical system on that tractor. It is set up like a car/// points, condenser, battery powered coil, ,stator (alternator) regulator... , and ever since I can remember, I have been told that the acceptable range is 13.8-14.8v on such a system. 14.4 is almost dead smack in the middle of that range.
It will depend on state of battery charge, load running at the time, and ambient temperature. stator produces at max tilt.... (again) as I can remember it seems to me off the top of my head that they would put out 15-20A tops, but remember.... they don't put that out just "anytime" they operate.... they are a "demand" system. if the demand is only 3A, then its 3A that you get, and no more. Otherwise you will start frying things.....

J-Mech · #20 04-11-2018, 11:04 PM

I basically agree with Don. 14.4 is ok. On this system, it's just a bit higher than "normal" but I've seen the run up that high on some machines. The R/R on them isn't a "precision" part, so voltages vary. Doesn't look like it's a voltage issue... at least not a DC voltage issue.

Don, as a note, unless the stator has been replaced, the stator's output is 15 amp. They did make a larger stator.... 18, maybe 20 amp (?) I can't remember what it was. But 15 amp was what CC (and most everyone) used.

Jason, do one more test for me.
Disconnect the stator wires from the R/R. (little black box, 3 wire connector) OHM either of the outer wires to the engine block. See if there is anything. Should be no OHMS. If it reads anything, you have a bad or shorted stator, and it may be leaking A/C voltage. If you don't get anything, I'm going to say you got some bad coils. I'd look at another brand. HOPEFULLY, that is all it is. Doesn't sound like there is anything else wrong with the system.