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  #11  
Old 06-30-2017, 08:56 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Ok.... well.... I'm sorry that they installed parts, but in this case, that was about the only way they could verify that was all that was wrong. If anything, I suppose you could tell them you don't want to pay for the coil.... But as a past shop owner, and the fact the bill is pretty small, I suggest you just pay for it. Besides, you couldn't figure it out and took it to them. When dealing with ignition issues on a point style engine, that is usually one of the first places you look. Did the blue coil cause the issue.... not likely. Unless it's bad or something odd. The OHM resistance is correct by part number. But still man.... $150 to do what they did is really fair.
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  #12  
Old 06-30-2017, 08:58 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
The Bosch 0012 is the correct coil for the Kohler Replacement. Lots of people have used them on Kohler engines. I call BS on the dealer.

Now hang on Roland. That's not totally fair. They may be wrong about the cause, but the diagnosis of faulty points sounds correct. A melted plastic tab on the points would cause it not to run. Besides, as a dealer, a Bosch coil isn't a Kohler part, so to them it is incorrect. On top of that, it doesn't sound like they gouged him.
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  #13  
Old 06-30-2017, 09:41 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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whoever you talked to at the dealer does not know what he is talking about. That "too hot" coil is an old wives tale. I am not saying it was the right one for your machine or that it was in good condition (hard to see from here) but just because a coil has a certain POTENTIAL to produce X number of volts, it will not produce a single volt more than needed to jump that gap...
when GM came out with their HEI ignition it was said that they had "80,000 volt" coils. When in actuality when the ignition parts were in good shape they would only put out like 5000 to 7000 volts as seen on a scope. Now pull a plug wire and hold the end an inch or so from the terminal on the plug and yeah.... it would produce a whole lot more than 5 to 7KV....
as your plugs wear and/or grow deposits onto them then yes the voltage requirement does tend to go up.... but you still rarely use all of a coil's potential....
the old timers would say that you would "burn a hole in your pistons" with an aftermarket hi-perf ignition when in reality under the same conditions they would not produce any more than stock in those same conditions....
Accel, MSD, and such sold alot of hi perf parts over the years and if those stories were true thye'd have been quickly run out of business.... and they are still going strong.

I relate what I say to cars but our tractors, like a car, run on a 12V ignition system..... so same thing applies.

I would tend to better believe one of 3 things about that blue Bosch coil that you used; (cuz I run em myself)
Either; A. You got the one that needed an external resistor and didn't run one. (would have been marked on the box or the coil itself...mine say "EXTERNAL RESISTOR NOT REQUIRED" because the resistor is built in. But not on all of them. By not running a resistor on coils that need them you will experience shortened point life.

or B. that Bosch coil was defective which does happen.

or C. They didn't see OEM parts and they believe that OEM is the "only" parts that will POSSIBLY work on these machines which is BS. so they felt obligated to "Use only OEM parts" being an OEM dealer.

My guess is that really it was something simple like tarnished points (the ones you used) due to storage. Alot of times either on the package or on a little slip of paper within the package they come in, it will say that you need to clean the points upon installation. It was something simple but being you "already tried it yourself", well you know...
ever see the poster with someone's labor rate that goes something like this;
$50.00/hour
$75.00/hour if you watch/
and $100/hour if you worked on it before you brought it to us"....
these posters you see are supposed to be funny
and the actual numbers may be off by a bit but it does happen....

think of "potential" this way.... Just because your home electricity has a circuit that is protected by a 20A. breaker, does NOT mean that it has 20A going thru the line at all times. If nothing is plugged into that line, it has ZERO AMPS going thru it.... plug in a Sawzall that takes 9 amps, then it feeds 9 amps thru that line while that saw is switched on and is under load, and that is IT. I hope this makes sense and I haven't "muddied the waters"....
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  #14  
Old 06-30-2017, 11:33 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Now hang on Roland.
That is my story and I am sticking to it.

All I said was there was NOTHING wrong with the Bosch Coil.

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  #15  
Old 07-01-2017, 12:11 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
That is my story and I am sticking to it.

All I said was there was NOTHING wrong with the Bosch Coil.

That is fair.
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