[PICS] Flex Disc - Drive shaft coupler question

[Matt G.]

Leave the engine mount rails in there, and unbolt the engine from the rails. 2 bolts are easy to get to, the other two are in the axle C-channel...you'll need an offset 9/16" wrench. Then you can easily slide the engine forward an inch or two, or tip it up. It helps to have another person, because trying to get the engine lined up and the driveshaft in the ball, and the bolts through the rag joint all at the same time is a three-ring circus.

I use a tapered punch to align the engine after the driveshaft is where it belongs. Stick the punch into one of the rear holes where the engine mount rail mounts to the oil pan, and wiggle it around until the punch is in as far as you can get it. With the right size punch, it'll be lined up, and you can get the bolt in. Do the same thing to the other side and put that bolt in (loose) and then the front ones should line up.

[BajaGTO]

Sweet. I don't own and offset 9/16" wrench and I am doing this by myself. Would it be easier to remove the drive shaft and try to align it that way?

[Matt G.]

If you jack the front of the tractor up, you might be able to get in there with a socket and ratchet and/or socket and small breaker bar. Take off the front wheel on the opposite side that you're currently working on so you don't get your fingers smashed.

It's not impossible to get everything lined up if you're alone, but it isn't exactly easy. You should be able to tip the engine up a bit with one hand and guide the driveshaft into place with the other. I have done it myself a few times, it just takes longer.

[BajaGTO]

Originally Posted by murphycc

A couple of comments-

I do not beat on anything.

I was taught many years ago how to think, thinking is a lost art. I was also to to use the least amount of energy and time to complete a task. We all have a finite amount of energy and time, smart is not lazy, stupid is lazy.

Most of these Cubs have been neglected for a decade or more before we get our hands on them. Pins are rusted, nuts and bolts frozen, etc..... The drive shaft in question may have to be taken out for the first time by tipping the motor but once out the shaft and components need to be restored or replaced. Once restored the components need to be maintained and once maintained you will NOT need to beat on the pins to remove them, with the correct pin puch and a small ball peen hammer they are easily removed and without damage, tapping is not beating. I can remove a drive shaft in about 10 minutes without disturbing the motor trans. I work smartly.

Scott

Scott-

In your opinion, I can take out the driveshaft by removing the rag joints and then reinstall it the same way? Or on reinstallation to i remove that shaft from the 'yokes' and then install the yokes onto the engine and driveshaft and then reinstall the drive shaft pins?

Originally Posted by BajaGTO

Scott-

In your opinion, I can take out the driveshaft by removing the rag joints and then reinstall it the same way? Or on reinstallation to i remove that shaft from the 'yokes' and then install the yokes onto the engine and driveshaft and then reinstall the drive shaft pins?

Since you're asking my opinion......


First thing I'd do is tip the motor forward again and get that shaft out of there.

Second thing is to take the shaft completely apart. Clean and wire wheel all parts. Replace parts if they are worn. Paint all parts, I use Rust-Oleum High Heat 2000 paint, no primer. Pre heat parts with a heat gun or blow dryer, spray two coats. This particlar paint has no thickness build up and is long lasting and it does keep parts like the shaft from rusting.
Wire wheel the pins and use anti-sieze when reinstalling.

I will slide couplers and rags onto the shaft lose, insert the shaft into the bushing on the motor coupling adaptor, bring other end to the pump coupler and insert, now losely bolt the rags to the pump and motor coupler. Slide both shaft couplers to the rags and losely bolt those together, now install pins, tighten and adjust all rag bolts.

Parts should look like this when installed. These pins have no anti-sieze on them at the time of the pic as this was only for fitting and I intended to remove and reinstall again.



Note the paint finish, no build up to inhibit couplers.



Don't forget your fan.

I see no reason not to restore all parts prior to reinstalling them. Most of us will be working on our tractors again and again, might as well make it easy for the next go round.

Scott

[JayBrd]

Originally Posted by murphycc

A couple of comments-

I do not beat on anything.

I was taught many years ago how to think, thinking is a lost art. I was also taught to use the least amount of energy and time to complete a task. We all have a finite amount of energy and time, smart is not lazy, stupid is lazy.

Most of these Cubs have been neglected for a decade or more before we get our hands on them. Pins are rusted, nuts and bolts frozen, etc..... The drive shaft in question may have to be taken out for the first time by tipping the motor but once out the shaft and components need to be restored or replaced. Once restored the components need to be maintained and once maintained you will NOT need to beat on the pins to remove them, with the correct pin puch and a small ball peen hammer they are easily removed and without damage, tapping is not beating. I can remove a drive shaft in about 10 minutes without disturbing the motor or trans. I work smartly.

Scott

Well put.....There are a few of us left!