Drive Line Clutch question - Page 2

dodge trucker · #11 03-27-2017, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell

$400 into a $250 tractor, makes it a $650 tractor.

If you are patient and do some research, hunt, and internet searching, you can find some really good deals.

only if I wind up keeping it.... if I don't, I wind up doing as I said, getting $250 out of something I have 400 (or more) into..... I am in a CL "desert" in the middle of 3 listing areas but "too far" from the main listing area of any of them. everyone tells me "I'm too far to go" for what ever I have to offer. ... gets old. yet I haveto go just as far when I want to buy something, doesn't make sense to me, either.

finsruskw · #12 03-28-2017, 09:18 AM

I agree w/Merk, fix it right and keep it.

My 1200 w/OEM mounts and drivetrain is one of the smoothest running quiet Cubs I have.

dodge trucker · #13 03-28-2017, 12:50 PM

Well I have a bunch, am always looking for more, plus a wife that wants me to thin the herd..... so at this point what will be kept and what will go is still to be determined, I am lucky enough to have a friend who has an extra barn that I am able to store things in but between the distance from home (about 30 miles) and the constant fight to keep them varmints from making themselves at home within my machines, it's a wait and see game to see what stays. Along with my own I get to maintain the barn owner's 1200 and his 1250.

dodge trucker · #14 03-30-2017, 09:22 AM

Great, getting more involved than I had hoped to on this machine, pulled the engine apart to check out the governor gear as the retainer screw for it was laying on the frame next to the motor, got the crank out w/o pulling the piston and rod, but somehow I couldn't get it back in the same way. Popped the piston out and saw the top land ate up pretty bad,. So now block is heading to the machine shop at lunchtime today. Wasn'twanting to do a whole rebuild on this one
Last k301 I did I wound up with over $500 into, used all OEM parts on that one. I have been afraid of the eBay kits, I am going to try one on this machine and hope for the best. I just hate Chinese made parts... They are usually crap.

J-Mech · #15 03-30-2017, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dodge trucker

Last k301 I did I wound up with over $500 into, used all OEM parts on that one. I have been afraid of the eBay kits, I am going to try one on this machine and hope for the best. I just hate Chinese made parts... They are usually crap.

You have no idea what your talking about.

Quite a bit of the stuff the guy I buy from are Stens. There are other brands too, but they are all good quality parts.

I can't tell you how many of those kits I've used and never had an issue. There's nothing wrong with aftermarket. It doesn't have to be made in the USA to be good. Lots of good things come out of other places. Sure, I wish we could always buy American, but we can't. This isn't a good place to rant about that though.

tinkerman · #16 03-30-2017, 12:33 PM

I just put one of them Chinese rebuild kits in a k 241. Can't speak for longevity but it sure is a smooth running, strong engine!!

dodge trucker · #17 03-30-2017, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You have no idea what your talking about.

Quite a bit of the stuff the guy I buy from are Stens. There are other brands too, but they are all good quality parts.

I can't tell you how many of those kits I've used and never had an issue. There's nothing wrong with aftermarket. It doesn't have to be made in the USA to be good. Lots of good things come out of other places. Sure, I wish we could always buy American, but we can't. This isn't a good place to rant about that though.

just the fact that it is aftermarket isn't the point. I use aftermarket parts in my job as an auto mechanic all the time, I remember a time when there were no aftermarket options for Kohler engines/ and I wished there were. I wonder why Sealed Power or Perfect Circle couldn't have been selling Kohler and Briggs parts, under their own label, right alongside parts for a 302 Ford engine, or a 350 Chevy.... but car parts aren't what they used to be, either.... many well known companies, if they even still exist, are shells of their former selves.
this has added to my leery-ness of trying aftermarket parts for these engines. but I cannot see the reason for a single OEM piston for a Kohler costing as much as a set of 8 for my truck, either.

dodge trucker · #18 04-04-2017, 08:44 PM

yup I do usually buy when I see a "good deal" and pigeon hole the parts for a "rainy day"...
I got the results from the machine shop and was quite surprised... std everything can go back in..and it don't need guides, of which I do have here already. so I ordered the kit with chrome rings from that guy in Ohio, the machine shop did say that the exhaust valve was beyond machining so I did splurge for OEM from a different seller on that one piece. and it was only another $2 for the stellite version as opposed to the non stellite OEM one from that seller... and less than 1/2 the price of an OEM stellite exh valve from a major small engine parts biz that I have bought lots of parts from over the years..... should have everything by Friday.....

J-Mech · #19 04-04-2017, 08:52 PM

I'm skeptical about going back standard...... if it's in that good of shape, why did you even take it apart???

dodge trucker · #20 04-04-2017, 09:11 PM

I took it apart because I found the governor retainer screw/pin laying alongside the engine among all the grass and oily mess.... so was afraid to attempt to fire it. While apart I had to pop the piston out to get the crank back in, and saw that the top ring land looked like steel that had been torch cut. all chewed up. Also noticed that the piston and rod didn't look OE, but as hard as everything came apart and as baked as the gaskets were, if it had been previously apart it was a LONG time ago.

as far as going back std, I took the block to an automotive machine shop and had them measure everything out, so I could know exactly what size (over/under) it would take... I fully expected to have to bore and machine the crank going in but the "experts" with the mikes said it didn't need it, I was quite surprised. Especially after having seen the condition of the piston, they said "the piston took the abuse rather than the block... their words not mine. They did say that the block deck (head gasket sealing surface) would need to be resurfaced. not unexpected considering the "stain" I saw along the bottom of that surface, I could tell the head gasket had to have been leaking, even though the gasket definitely did NOT look "blown" in the least.

This was my 1st experience with this machine shop, we shall see..... I have a K321 that I want to send them right behind this one out of an old Sperry rand/New Holland (which became the Ariens GT line) maybe the K341 from my newest (most recent) Ariens that showed up here.... well see how this one turns out 1st, as with the old machine shop I used to use (owner retired/no longer around) I could NEVER get out of there without the block needing "everything", I sometimes wondered if they were taking advantage of me or if they truly needed everything they charged me for.....

I thought for a second of just doing a quickie hone here at home on this one but decided against it on account of not having any inside mikes or bore/taper gauges here to use. (I do have outside mikes and know how to use them)