108 generator

[twoton]

Good write-up there Yosemite Sam, thanks for taking the time to do that.

[Bamafan]

Originally Posted by twoton

Good write-up there Yosemite Sam, thanks for taking the time to do that.

What he said.

[Wayne]

Thanks for all the ideas. The only thing I've had time to do so far is test the battery. It's about the same running as stopped, right there about 12 V. I have a needle gauge so I can't read decimals. It might be 12.5. But it doesn't go up noticeably when running. I didn't wait for it to warm up, I just ran it for 30 seconds or so and then tested.

I have replaced the battery (all too) regularly. At most every 2 years. This battery was new last year. The issue with cold starts and having to disconnect the battery between uses has been going on through several batteries, so perhaps the generator has been a smoldering issue all along. I'll see if I can find time this weekend to do some more testing.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Originally Posted by Wayne

Thanks for all the ideas. The only thing I've had time to do so far is test the battery. It's about the same running as stopped, right there about 12 V. I have a needle gauge so I can't read decimals. It might be 12.5. But it doesn't go up noticeably when running. I didn't wait for it to warm up, I just ran it for 30 seconds or so and then tested.

I have replaced the battery (all too) regularly. At most every 2 years. This battery was new last year. The issue with cold starts and having to disconnect the battery between uses has been going on through several batteries, so perhaps the generator has been a smoldering issue all along. I'll see if I can find time this weekend to do some more testing.

There is a procedure in the technical library that goes into detail how to test for a bad V/R and S/G.

[twoton]

Some good reading;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...017#post180017

[ironman]

Here's another good reading link on the operation of the v/r.....

http://www.cubcadetman.com/cc/how-to...age-regulator/

[Wayne]

OK, thank the snow gods they havent been angry this winter because I havent had to use the tractor in weeks and I'm just getting back to this.

I was thinking about this test when I stumbled across https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxTsANakLf8

I took the belt and wires off and used a jump starter pack per the video and according to this and what you've described below it appears my generator is a crispy critter. The starter spins fine when I apply power but doesnt slow when I move the power to the field post. However this sounds a little different from what you said (because you said run a wire from ground to field), so I thought I better check before deciding where to go next.

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

First off, what does "IOW" mean?

Lets see if we can at least find out what the problem is with your charging system for little to no cost, so you know in what direction you need to proceed.

Since you say "I have had for a long time is an apparent loss of charge between uses". I'm guessing that you need to use jumper cables or a boost box to get it started. If you disconnect the battery between uses and it's dead when you try to start the tractor the next time, chances are the battery will need to be replaced. Replacing a bad battery could cure the whole problem, but we can move on to the S/G to find out if there are problems there.

If you don't own a multimeter, you can get one from the harbor freight for 3 or 4 bucks if you catch them on sale.

Turn the knob on the meter to VDC, with the battery disconnected in the tractor check the voltage across the pos and neg terminals. It should be 12.5 volts or a little more. Write down or remember the voltage.

Now lets find out if the S/G is capable of making electricity. Since we don't know if there are any wiring issues, remove both wires from the S/G so that it is completely isolated from any problems that could exist (take note of the location of each wire). Remove the belt from the S/G pulley.

Clamp your jumper cables or whatever you use, to the S/G. Pos cable to the "A" terminal, do not clamp the cable to the threads on the "A" terminal, clamp it to the nut.

Clamp the other end of the jumper cables to a known good power supply. Pos to Pos, Neg to Neg.

THEN clamp the other Neg cable to a known good ground (I normally use one of the S/G mounting bolts). The S/G should spin pretty fast.

With the S/G hooked up and spinning, briefly connect a wire to the "F" terminal on the S/G and the other end to a known good ground. The S/G should slow down but not stop completely.

If it does not slow down during this test, try it a couple more times, you may not be making good contact somewhere.

If the S/G does not slow during this test it will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

If you need a different S/G, try putting an ad in the wanted section. Since Minnesota is a Cub Cadet rich state, hopefully a kind hearted member close to you will sell you a good one for a reasonable price.

If your S/G does slow during the test, it is working as it should. Put an ad in the wanted section and maybe a kind hearted member will sell you the other long bolt that holds it together.

Once you find out if the S/G is good or not, post back here and tell us what you found out and we can move on to the next step.

[Wayne]

Oh and... I actually disconnected the starter wires weeks ago and now I can't remember which one goes to A and F... One wire is a very heavy gauge and one's a puny 12-14 ga, both were painted yellow by the previous owner just to confuse me I'm sure.

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by Wayne

Oh and... I actually disconnected the starter wires weeks ago and now I can't remember which one goes to A and F... One wire is a very heavy gauge and one's a puny 12-14 ga, both were painted yellow by the previous owner just to confuse me I'm sure.

Heavy gauge goes to A terminal. Small wire goes to F terminal.

Follow Yo Sams directions. Proper way is listed, briefly ground F terminal in that test not apply positive

[Wayne]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Heavy gauge goes to A terminal. Small wire goes to F terminal.

That's what I thought. Thanks

Originally Posted by Alvy

Follow Yo Sams directions. Proper way is listed, briefly ground F terminal in that test not apply positive

So what is the guy in the video proving when he puts the pos on the F and it slows down? Anything?