Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Guest, We have turned off the forum to guest. This is due to bots attacking the site. It is still free to register.

-->
Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Implements and Attachments

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 12-06-2016, 10:15 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Oh, Tom is right about not mixing the two different greases. I'd disassemble them both, clean them up and relube. No, I do not use a gun to put the grease in. I fill the box then reassemble. If I feel it needs more, I can always pump in some more wheel bearing grease through the zerk, then pull the zerk and add oil with an oil can. But as long as it isn't leaking, no need to add more.

FWIW, if the blower hasn't been heavily used, or doesn’t look like it is leaking... I don't think I'd mess with it, but it's not a bad idea if you think you need to. You have to take the entire blower apart to access both boxes. It's a moderate job that will take several hours.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-07-2016, 02:23 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
Default

J-Mech, thanks for the advice. I figured I'd go ahead and just pull both boxes and clean them out, maybe put a grease fitting on the bottom of the auger box while I had it apart but man are those things stuck to that center shaft, lol. I thought once I unbolted the auger at both ends and the bracket that holds the gear box to the top of the housing it would just slide off the shaft, no way! I'm going to go dig up a parts diagram and make sure I'm not missing anything, doesn't seem to be anything else holding the shaft into the boxes.

If I get it apart I'm going to hit the inside of the housing and chute up with a wire wheel and get some paint on it. Not sure how well it will work with all the rust.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-07-2016, 03:15 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Augers, impeller and auger box come out as an assembly. The augers are held on the shaft with a sheer bolt.

Don't paint the housing. Just shine it up. Snowblowers are like plows. Nice and shiny bare metal is the best. Snow sticks to painted surfaces.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-07-2016, 03:36 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
Default

So the shaft the impeller is on doesn't come out of the auger box without splitting it? Wouldn't have guessed that. From what you're saying the whole unit (augers, gearbox and shaft) should still pull out once I unbolted the augers from the sides but the shaft would stay in the auger box until disassembly. Something is stuck good, must be where the shaft goes into the main gear box with the pulley on it. I unbolted that box from the rear of the snowblower housing but it won't come off either, lol. Hope that shaft isn't screwed up. I sprayed everything with penetrating oil, give it a try later.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-07-2016, 03:45 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

You better look at a parts book. I'm not where I can post a pic.

The driveshaft from the impeller to the auger drive is attached to the impeller with a spirol pin. No, the shaft does not come out of the box unless you split it. The impeller is on a spline drive off the box on back where the pulley is. Impeller or main box should just slide apart. If they don't, the impeller is stuck on. You have two choices at this point. Leave it alone and run it, or get ready to fight the impeller. I've seen guys have to heat, beat and even cut them off. Good luck. Mine slid right off when I had to take it apart.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-07-2016, 04:24 PM
cubs-n-bxrs's Avatar
cubs-n-bxrs cubs-n-bxrs is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 1,934
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shrewcub View Post
Ive done what J-mech said and had no problems. What brand 0# grease have you seen? Just curious.
Travis you can purchase 0 weight grease in tube form from Napa. It's made by Lubriplate. About 5-6$ for a tube. I just bought a tube the other day. It's what I lube up my suspension on my Skidoo with it. It's extreme pressure white lithium grease.
__________________
149,682,1641,1711 with a 12hp in it 1 8" brinly plow 1 10" brinly plow 451 snow blower,H-48 International snow thrower 42" york rake with fold down grader blade.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-07-2016, 05:19 PM
Shrewcub's Avatar
Shrewcub Shrewcub is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Nokesville, VA
Posts: 2,032
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
Travis you can purchase 0 weight grease in tube form from Napa. It's made by Lubriplate. About 5-6$ for a tube. I just bought a tube the other day. It's what I lube up my suspension on my Skidoo with it. It's extreme pressure white lithium grease.
Kelly I'll check next time I'm in there. I know I've looked before, but we have really pathetic parts stores here!
__________________
Travis

1993 Cub Cadet 2064
1988 Cub Cadet 2072
1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20
1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301
1961 IH Cub Cadet O
1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122

JD 2155 w/ 175 loader
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-07-2016, 05:35 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
You better look at a parts book. I'm not where I can post a pic.
After looking at the parts diagrams and a bunch of pictures on another thread I think I see how it goes now. The shaft coming out of the auger box is pinned to the impeller. The back of the impeller is splined to accept the splined shaft coming out of the main drive gearbox. Basically the impeller acts as a coupler for the two shafts. When I unbolt the main gearbox (with the pulley) on the back of the unit it should slide right out of the impeller. It does not so it's got to be frozen. Really don't want to get into all that, lol. Not much room between the gearbox and the housing to even try to heat up that shaft. You guys are great. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-07-2016, 09:05 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 55
Default

Stuck parts fear me, lol.



Man, that was a PITA, nothing the old gas hatchet couldn't fix though. Wasn't too bad after J-Mech explained how it came apart. I was thinking that shaft should pull right out of the auger box, glad I didn't pry on that too hard. Helps when you know where to apply heat and pressure, lol. I'll grease the snot out of that shaft with some waterproof marine grease when I put it back together.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-07-2016, 10:25 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Looks like you got a leaker. Probably good you decided to take it apart.


Make sure you mix some grease and anti-seize and put on the splines when you put it back together. Prevent them from getting stuck again..... maybe.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.