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  #11  
Old 08-27-2016, 07:45 AM
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cubs-n-bxrs cubs-n-bxrs is offline
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Just out of curiosity what kind of volt meter are you using? Voltage that high at WOT would boil your battery.
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  #12  
Old 08-27-2016, 03:50 PM
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Lew could very well be right on about the switch, especially if you aren't using a cub one or something heavy duty. You might have a good aftermarket switch, but not quite something that stands up to the vibration.
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  #13  
Old 08-27-2016, 03:53 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by coakes00 View Post
Played around with it some tonight and checked the voltage again. Now I'm getting from 14-17 at low idle and 20-22 volts at WOT.

The flickering stopped when I ran a jumper but only from the light it was touching. I was going to clean the ground connection but my jumper hit the positive terminal and tripped my fuse so I had to be done for the night.

Anyone know why my voltage is so high?
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Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
Just out of curiosity what kind of volt meter are you using? Voltage that high at WOT would boil your battery.

I too think your meter is wrong. A generator is not capable of putting out 20V. 17V is about their max.

I've never seen a switch that made something "pulse". I highly, highly doubt is't a switch.

May not have good ground and the regulator isn't charging right. That can cause a pulse..... But I also doubt it's just the ground for the light.
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  #14  
Old 08-27-2016, 08:17 PM
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Used my dad's GB multi-meter and got 14 at idle and 15.4 at WOT. Otherwise a new fuse so I'm going to replace it and take a note Emory cloth to the ground before I replace the switch but it's looking like that may be my weak link.
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  #15  
Old 08-27-2016, 08:48 PM
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That's still too high. You don't want anything over 14.5 really....
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2016, 07:44 AM
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The accuracy of the meter was questioned, how about checking it on a standard? Try it on your battery without the engine running and see what you get. Then try it on a couple more known good batteries. All the results should be pretty darn close. FWIW, I have a meter that stays at my house so I can check voltage of my generator output should we lose power. I have checked the readings in my house and wrote them on the back of the meter, then I make sure I am getting the same when the power goes out and I have to switch to generator.
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  #17  
Old 09-01-2016, 10:55 AM
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Since I was getting too many volts to the battery and I noticed I was getting moisture/nasty corrosion around the positive pole (possibly boiling the battery) I decided to get just a new voltage regulator. I'm now getting 12.8 V at idle and about 14.2 V at WOT.

At idle my lights are fine now but when I throttle up, the lights started flashing again. I took the lead wire from the switch off the right light and touched it to the left light and the flashing in the left bulb stopped but the right one continued to flicker.

The only thing that I can think of is that I just have a bad bulb in the right side? I've tightened all the connections and cleaned the ground, I even have the lights grounded with the voltage regulator on the same bolt. I don't think it is the switch if its just the one bulb but any takes on the situation are more then welcome.
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  #18  
Old 09-01-2016, 11:00 AM
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Swith the lights left to right and see if the flicker moves.
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  #19  
Old 09-01-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by coakes00 View Post
Since I was getting too many volts to the battery and I noticed I was getting moisture/nasty corrosion around the positive pole (possibly boiling the battery) I decided to get just a new voltage regulator. I'm now getting 12.8 V at idle and about 14.2 V at WOT.

At idle my lights are fine now but when I throttle up, the lights started flashing again. I took the lead wire from the switch off the right light and touched it to the left light and the flashing in the left bulb stopped but the right one continued to flicker.

The only thing that I can think of is that I just have a bad bulb in the right side? I've tightened all the connections and cleaned the ground, I even have the lights grounded with the voltage regulator on the same bolt. I don't think it is the switch if its just the one bulb but any takes on the situation are more then welcome.
I don't think those lights are expensive. You could get a new one to try it out. Might be something loose inside and you're pulsing is more from a loose connection and the vibrations at WOT, not necessarily an electrical issue.
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  #20  
Old 09-01-2016, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by sir_lancealot View Post
I don't think those lights are expensive. You could get a new one to try it out. Might be something loose inside and you're pulsing is more from a loose connection and the vibrations at WOT, not necessarily an electrical issue.
Lights aren't too bad but the shipping is. I try to wait until I have more parts I need before I order from CCSpecialties or ihccw. I do have a local Case IH dealer a few towns away so I might go and see if they stock any cub parts.

J-Mech - I didn't completely switch the lights around but I did switch the wires around and the one bulb still flickered
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