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  #11  
Old 08-02-2016, 02:14 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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oh yeah...looks like a gravel pit inside this carb...
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2016, 05:21 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne View Post
Well, that makes 3 for the carb rebuild.
No, it's 4. You counted wrong.


Make sure that the sediment bowl has a screen in it. If not, add a filter, or replace the bowl. I suggest replacing the sediment bowl. They don't require replacement like a filter, just a cleaning. After 40 years they do get a little corrosion on them though, so I usually replace them and start over. A sed bowl is better IMHO, because it also traps water, and you can see when it needs cleaned.
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2016, 11:03 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Make sure that the sediment bowl has a screen in it. If not, add a filter, or replace the bowl. I suggest replacing the sediment bowl. They don't require replacement like a filter, just a cleaning. After 40 years they do get a little corrosion on them though, so I usually replace them and start over. A sed bowl is better IMHO, because it also traps water, and you can see when it needs cleaned.
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2016, 11:29 PM
Gregory Gregory is offline
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I agree with other posters, rebuild the carb. For me, I go on the cheap and spend as little as possible at first just to get the engine running.
I have a few cubs and do this on each one at first. Pull of engine and save all linkages. Make note of where they go. Remove both low and high speed jets, pull of bowl, float and needle valve. Soak in carb cleaner solution / clean Clean all parts and especially fuel delivery and jet holes in carb with compressed air ( if possible) and and brake cleaner. Re-assemble and adjust jets to 2 to 2 and 1/2 turns from fully seated. Engine should run (that's been my luck) but you will need to fine tune the jets.

Above all things, install an in-line filter. This is cheap insurance and will keep the engine starting all the time. Ethanol fuels will clog up systems.

Once the cheapy-fix is done on the carb and your satisfied that the engine at least runs, then spend the money on the carb rebuild kit. Also another poster mentioned it, air could be coming in to the carb body through worn throttle plate bushings. Air should only come in through the air filter and not from any other part of the system.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2016, 11:45 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by Gregory View Post
Ethanol fuels will clog up systems.
Not true at all.... Ethanol breaks up loose gunk and can eat up old hoses not made for the alcohol, but ethanol itself is not to blame. A dirty fuel system is. These engines are carbureted and have metal fuel tanks. The only thing that may not hold up to ethanol is the fuel hose.
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2016, 08:01 AM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregory View Post

Ethanol fuels will clog up systems.
I been using E10 for 15 plus years with no fuel related problems.

I agree with J-Mech response below.

Quote:
By J-Mech

Not true at all.... Ethanol breaks up loose gunk and can eat up old hoses not made for the alcohol, but ethanol itself is not to blame. A dirty fuel system is. These engines are carbureted and have metal fuel tanks. The only thing that may not hold up to ethanol is the fuel hose.
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  #17  
Old 08-03-2016, 07:42 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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#$@# store gave me a Kohler 12 757 01-S kit

Thats not the right one, is it?

That';s OK, its only 50-60 miles round trip to get another...
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  #18  
Old 08-04-2016, 09:06 AM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Since I cant get to the shop for days and the grass is knee high, after a good soaking and spraying with carb cleaner I put it back on. If anything, its worse now. It ran briefly but then died. After cranking some more fuel was spraying out of the choke again...
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  #19  
Old 08-04-2016, 10:25 PM
Wayne Wayne is offline
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Well it turns out the right kit doesn't really have anything in it anyway, just a bowl and bolt gasket. I've now cleaned the carb twice and also cleaned the tank (screen was good) and installed an inline filter. the needle looks good under a scope and it seems to seat and seal. I've cleared the gas from the cylinder after each try but now it won't start at all. I've started with both screws at about 2.5 turns out and backed them out from there. Still think I'm getting too much gas, but it isn't coming out like it was before. I've got spark.

Whats my next step, experts? How do I check the float level?
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  #20  
Old 08-04-2016, 10:28 PM
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if your 2.5 turns out and getting to much fuel then turn it in, id go to 1.5 turns out and go from there.
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