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  #11  
Old 07-16-2016, 10:52 AM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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Bring memorys back looking at your son picture! I was about 10 years old smilling like him sitting on my dad "O", the first tractor I ever been on!

You did a good job, can't wait to see the final result assembled!
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  #12  
Old 07-16-2016, 12:33 PM
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Your 70 is looking good.
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  #13  
Old 07-16-2016, 12:39 PM
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Looking good, keep it up.
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  #14  
Old 07-16-2016, 01:07 PM
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Thanks guys. I'll have some more pic's tonight.
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  #15  
Old 07-16-2016, 01:33 PM
longislandcubs longislandcubs is offline
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Really nicely done, and I enjoyed your history with the machine. Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 07-16-2016, 02:57 PM
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Very nice work there and quality materials used, great job
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  #17  
Old 07-16-2016, 03:38 PM
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Your 70 looks awesome!
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  #18  
Old 07-16-2016, 04:39 PM
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Ok here are more pics. First I supported to trans-axle on a cinder-block support with wood underneath. Next the frame was mounted and bolted to the trans-axle. Supported the front axle and frame with a whiskey barrel. It was the only thing I could find in a pinch.
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File Type: jpg DSCN4545.jpg (24.9 KB, 131 views)
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2016, 04:51 PM
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The axle pin was replaced with a new one. I also did a system improvement by putting a zerk fitting in the axle. In taking the tractor apart it was discovered that the original pin was frozen in the bore. The tractor appeared to pivot correctly but it did so due to the roll pin being broken. It took an acetylene torch getting the entire axle assembly glowing red to get the original axle pin out. I replaced it with one designed for the 70/100's off from ebay. Hopefully now the tractor will now pivot the way it was designed to and won't seize up from rust again.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2016, 05:13 PM
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Also, prior to taking this restoration the steering was sloppy. Research from this forum and other information found stated that the sloppieness is due to wear in the drag-link and in the steering assembly. Currently I have 4 new tie-rod ends along with a bearing carriage, steering stud pivot pin and a bearing on order.
The Drag-link did have slop in it. To fix this, I used a kit available from another member of this forum which basically is a tapered pin. You use a reamer which comes with the kit which creates a tapper in the spindle hole where the original roll pin connected the drag-link to the steering spindle. What you wind up with is a tapper hole for the pin which goes from one side of the drag-link to the other and then a nut is used to secure and to apply restraining pressure to lock everything in place.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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