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  #11  
Old 06-10-2016, 11:12 AM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Run low on gas and the fuel light will come on,turn the key with the pto on,that light should come on.
do not depress the brake,and when you turn the key the light should come on.
The gen light only comes on when it is not charging.
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2016, 05:10 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Tried starting it without the brake and no lights came on, tried with the pto on and nothing either until I depressed the brake, then the pto light came on so I know that one works.

Found the problem with my forward/reverse lever jumping. I hate working on things idiots have screwed with, check out his friction washer replacement job:



Saw another post where a guy says he took out the battery tray and was able to gain enough room to replace it without taking the entire dash apart. Anyone else ever try it? He said he had to pry the dash out a bit to get enough room.
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2016, 07:03 PM
bugeye bugeye is offline
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I replaced the friction washer a few years ago. I removed the plastic side panels for some access and used an open end wrench on the nut. As I recall, I did not disassemble any part of the plastic dash. It was a snug fit for the nut/wrench and I may have flexed the black plastic slightly. Sorry, no pictures.
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  #14  
Old 06-10-2016, 07:12 PM
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Bugjunkie66 Bugjunkie66 is offline
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Jerkin,

Here is the dash on my 1864 with ignition on, engine off. Only ammeter light and oil press are illuminated. Both go off when engine starts and is running.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1864 Dash.JPG (61.1 KB, 134 views)
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149 with #2A Tiller
169 mowing machine
1864 with 3pt hitch & 54" GT deck
Haban Sickle Bar
DB moldboard plow
Brinly #10 plow
1959 DB Suburban with 3pt
882D with 3pt and front remotes - "in progress"
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  #15  
Old 06-10-2016, 08:55 PM
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PO's like to bypass the seat safety switch by adding a few washers to the two bolts that hold the plate in place that the seat rest on .
Bugjunkie is that with the pedal depressed?
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  #16  
Old 06-10-2016, 09:54 PM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugeye View Post
I replaced the friction washer a few years ago. I removed the plastic side panels for some access and used an open end wrench on the nut. As I recall, I did not disassemble any part of the plastic dash. It was a snug fit for the nut/wrench and I may have flexed the black plastic slightly. Sorry, no pictures.
That is what I'm going to try, the other post I read said the guy took the battery tray out also. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugjunkie66 View Post
Jerkin,

Here is the dash on my 1864 with ignition on, engine off. Only ammeter light and oil press are illuminated. Both go off when engine starts and is running.
Thank you for the pic, that is exactly what I was looking for. If yours is correct then I may only have a problem with the ammeter light and that should be easy enough to check by pulling the wire to the battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
PO's like to bypass the seat safety switch by adding a few washers to the two bolts that hold the plate in place that the seat rest on .
Bugjunkie is that with the pedal depressed?
That may have been done to mine also because you don't need to be on the seat to start it, just hold the brake on.
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  #17  
Old 06-10-2016, 10:09 PM
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Bugjunkie66 Bugjunkie66 is offline
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Yes, pedal is depressed and locked down. Engine off, ignition on.
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Steve

149 with #2A Tiller
169 mowing machine
1864 with 3pt hitch & 54" GT deck
Haban Sickle Bar
DB moldboard plow
Brinly #10 plow
1959 DB Suburban with 3pt
882D with 3pt and front remotes - "in progress"
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  #18  
Old 06-11-2016, 06:00 AM
bugeye bugeye is offline
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Check the two switch plugs under the seat. One may have become loose and the other may have a test jumper installed.

There is also a switch behind the dash at the hydro control handle slot.
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  #19  
Old 06-13-2016, 10:34 AM
jerkin jerkin is offline
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Got a little more done to the 1864 over the weekend. Friction washer is a PITA, lol. I could do it much quicker if I ever need to do it again though. If anyone is interested I pulled the battery tray to get more access and just zip tied it to the top of the dash to keep it out of the way. If I were to do it again I would seriously think about pulling the deck, it was a pain leaning over it and every time I dropped something I had to look all over the deck for it.

The only hard part is getting the shaft that the friction washer goes on out of the dash tower. It sticks out of both sides and has a flange on each side inside the dash tower prohibiting it from sliding out either side. What I ended up doing was using a pry bar that was bigger than a large screwdriver and had the bent end on it like a crowbar. I put a small block of wood on the dash tower then pried off of the flange on the shaft and popped it out. Tried it originally with a screwdriver but between the flex and not having the angled end it wouldn't work.

Since I had the battery and tray out I pulled the firewall and fixed the foam gasket that goes around the engine and pulled the starter so I could blow out any junk that may have been trapped in that shroud. I have it mostly back together now, probably finish it up this evening. Thanks for all the help.
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