Giving the 1650 Some TLC

[sawdustdad]

Finally got a little time to disassemble the K341 completely. It came apart with no problems, no other damaged parts or issues. Then forgot to bring the block and crank home with me last weekend so I could take it to the machine shop.

Ordered and received parts from CCspecialties. Nice to see them back up and running at full speed after that fire a couple years ago.

PTO field coil, while it still worked, looks like toast. Nice new one will fix the problem.

Once I get the block bored, I'll report back on the results.

[ol'George]

Toast goes better with butter and jelly
Carefully remove the loose insulation on the coil and mix an epoxy of your choice
and coat the coil so it fills the cavity just like the new one.
(butter and jelly)
Then you have a spare for you or a friend.
BTDT

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Toast goes better with butter and jelly
Carefully remove the loose insulation on the coil and mix an epoxy of your choice
and coat the coil so it fills the cavity just like the new one.
(butter and jelly)
Then you have a spare for you or a friend.
BTDT

I thought about doing that. Since it still worked, it hadn't shorted out yet, so I think that would work fine. I'll do that and keep it for a spare.

Here's a link to the original thread for this tractor from a couple years ago. right after I got it and cleaned it up. At that time, I never touched the engine.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...to_threadtools

[sawdustdad]

No pics this post. The block bored out to .010 over, crank .010 under. Ordered the rebuuild kit and have the engine reassembled and installed. Replaced the PTO switch, the hydro control handle, one fuse holder, a new pair of release valves on the hydro. Need to put the carb back together, throttle and choke linkages, governor, made a muffler crutch out of 1 in x 1/4 in bar stock. Should be back in action in a couple more hours of work to put the grill, hood and fuel tank back on.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Unifence. It's a vintage 3hp Rockwell Unisaw.

Go to any woodworking blog and start debating Unifence vs Beis...then get prepared for a fight...I think Delta/Rockwell invented the former several decades ago and then bought the latter. I had the choice when I bought my saw and opted for the Uni...no regrets. But back to the post...any ideas about why that one piece looks like toast?

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by teejk

Go to any woodworking blog and start debating Unifence vs Beis...then get prepared for a fight...I think Delta/Rockwell invented the former several decades ago and then bought the latter. I had the choice when I bought my saw and opted for the Uni...no regrets. But back to the post...any ideas about why that one piece looks like toast?

I've thought about a Beismeyer fence, but there's never been any operation that the unifence couldn't handle, so I never felt an urgent need to change it. It's easy to set up on either side of the blade and you can move the fence fore and aft on the clamping T-Bar. I use the same fence on the router lift which sits in the extension table to the right of the saw.

The field coil for the PTO clutch degraded due to heat and age. The encapsulation material just got old, fractured, and began to fall apart.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I've thought about a Beismeyer fence, but there's never been any operation that the unifence couldn't handle, so I never felt an urgent need to change it. It's easy to set up on either side of the blade and you can move the fence fore and aft on the clamping T-Bar. I use the same fence on the router lift which sits in the extension table to the right of the saw.

The field coil for the PTO clutch degraded due to heat and age. The encapsulation material just got old, fractured, and began to fall apart.

I too like the Uni...very versatile I think (although I need to tear it down because there is a little O-ring in the locking mechanism that needs replacement). But back to the thread...my 1250 (now a clone because it was beat-up when I got it and I decided to drop a K341 into it) had the electric PTO...it failed after about 10 years old (2 of them on my watch). The replacement wasn't too bad on the pocket book at the time. In my case I think it was electrical. I seem to burn out switches often even though I have changed out much of the wiring and cleaned up the grounding points. Just what it is I guess.

[sawdustdad]

I finished the installation of the rebuilt engine, and had a couple issues to resolve in the process--

1. fuel tank leaking at the grommet. Had a spare grommet on hand, replaced it, and leak stopped.
2. Engine oil leak. Puddle on the garage floor. Where was it coming from?? Careful inspection showed the bottom left corner of the breather cover. Removed it. Ah ha! I had reassembled without changing gaskets. Not sure what I was thinking. Rookie mistake. Replaced gaskets, reassembled. No leak.

Engine runs good, idles correctly.

Had an interesting issue with the spark plug. As I was getting ready to start it, (I static timed it on assembly) I got no spark as I grounded the plug against the head bolt. cleaned the points. Still no spark. Ummm. As I was holding the plug I lifted it off the bolt head and the threads sparked to the engine. Ah ha! The plug electrode was shorted internally to the plug's threads. Replaced the plug, got good spark. Engine fired right up and ran well.

On to the 123 engine replacement.

[twoton]

Good to hear you're back in business.

[ACecil]

Glad you got the 1650 going again!