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  #11  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:35 PM
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Jeff in Pa Jeff in Pa is offline
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What's oss?
These 60 hour weeks are messing with my keyboard
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  #12  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:54 PM
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Check every spindle on the deck for wobble. You'll probably have to get down on the ground and reach under it and grab the blades. How are the belts and the two front idler pulleys? Does the deck show signs of rusting out and how are the gauge wheels? Are the tires holding air and is the seat useable? Turn the steering wheel and watch for lost motion in the front axle, spindles and ball joints. These are some of the more common repairs. Don't forget you'll be needing a $40 battery.

With all the add on lights and the nice vacuum system, someone once appeared to care quite a bit for this machine. My concern is why did a repair shop buy it and not fix it for resell?
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  #13  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:56 PM
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If you can't hear the tractor run there is no way I'd go more than 200, bagger or not. I am of the gather them all crowd but unless you really want that vac I wouldn't give what he wants.
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  #14  
Old 03-16-2016, 10:11 PM
duckpin duckpin is offline
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Thanks, all, for your replies to this point. I am hoping to have some concrete answers once I bring my friend over for his two cents, because he can tell me what the deal is.

J-Mech, you bring up some valid points and I thank you for being a straight shooter. Having never dealt with riding mowers before (apart from my father's), I am not really sure what to find. So this helps. I also have my wedding this summer, which needless to say will be depleting the bank account all on its own. I won't know anything about the engine until we fire it up, and that would be a deal breaker (well, that and if the frame is shot). Until then, game on. If it checked out, my plan would be to carry $275 in bills and say, take this now and I'll take it with me. This repair shop is one of those that has tons of used, broken-down equipment everywhere ... which makes me think he just wanted to flip it.

John Hall, I did not get down to see under the deck. I really just did a cursory look ... battery is there (dead, obviously), transmission shifts. It seemed like all the parts were there, but I'll find out more in the coming weeks. I forgot to check how big the deck is. Belts were there, too, but that would be the first thing I replace. One last thing is that the tires are bald and would have to be replaced.

Thanks,
Brian
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  #15  
Old 03-17-2016, 07:37 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Inspect the clutch closely. Lot$ of drive train $$ can be spent there. The 3 pin driver is $125 by itself!! They are notorious for cracking. Look for leaky axle seals. There should be side panels for it somewhere, make sure you get them but it would not be a deal killer for me. Make sure the engine is not stuck and has an air cleaner on it. Check the shift lever to be sure it is not broken at the cone and you can shift through all gears easily. The cone to lever fix is doable but care needs to be taken to get it centered properly before welding. I just repaied on on a 126 and it took 2 tries to get it right.

The 100's are great little tractors. At present, I have a shredder mounted on mine and I also plow with it at plow days. When it's at 100% you're gonna love it!!

You have to love these little tractors. But they can be real money pits! Especially if you are not good with tools and have to rely on someone else for repairs etc.

Good luck!
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  #16  
Old 03-17-2016, 08:00 AM
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Brian

Where are you in CT? I used to live in Watertown.

Plenty of Cubs for sale in CT, Just get on Craigs list and type Cub Cadet in the search box.
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2016, 01:40 PM
Bob95065 Bob95065 is offline
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Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Inspect the clutch closely. Lot$ of drive train $$ can be spent there. The 3 pin driver is $125 by itself!! They are notorious for cracking. Look for leaky axle seals. There should be side panels for it somewhere, make sure you get them but it would not be a deal killer for me. Make sure the engine is not stuck and has an air cleaner on it. Check the shift lever to be sure it is not broken at the cone and you can shift through all gears easily. The cone to lever fix is doable but care needs to be taken to get it centered properly before welding. I just repaied on on a 126 and it took 2 tries to get it right.

The 100's are great little tractors. At present, I have a shredder mounted on mine and I also plow with it at plow days. When it's at 100% you're gonna love it!!

You have to love these little tractors. But they can be real money pits! Especially if you are not good with tools and have to rely on someone else for repairs etc.

Good luck!

I agree. I just put a clutch in my 1000. I know the history of that machine since new and have used it since the mid 1980’s. It doesn’t look expensive until you get into it. It seems like everything casts $50 – Throw out lever, throw out bearing, hanger bracket, etc. It adds up quick. The flex plate looked good thank goodness.

Quietline (1000, 1200, 1250, 1450, 1650) tractors have engines that are rubber-mounted. The rubber fails then the engine moves. This puts stress on the clutch and causes premature failure. This is what takes out the flex plates. Search the board for “cradle mod” and do that first. BTW the rubber isolators aren’t cheap. Last time I checked they were $28 a corner.

I replaced my axle seals and gaskets on my 1000 when I got it back 3 years ago. It wasn’t bad or expensive. Mine had the original gaskets seals from 1977. That’s a good time to put some fresh Hytran in there too.

Others have pointed out that the side panels are missing. The lower grille screen is missing too. No big deal unless you want it original. These parts aren’t hard to find. My 1000 is all original. I like them that way.

My 1000 mowed a 2 acre lawn in suburban South Chicago from 8/77 until 1/14. The engine hasn’t been rebuilt and to the best of my knowledge all that has been done to it is replaced a snapped spoil pin at the back of the main spring on the driveshaft, replaced the brushes in the starter, replaced the coil, replaced the seat, transmission service (gaskets, seals, Hytran), mule drive pulleys, replaced the clutch (driveshaft, T/O bearing, lever, disc, teaser spring, TS cup, all new spoil pins, surfaced the pressure plates, and replaced the spherical bushings). Not bad for 38.5 years of regular service.

The 1000 is now living an easy life at the north end of Monterey Bay in Northern California with a 1450. It mows the lawn (really cuts weeds) this time of year and drags a box scraper. Its biggest job is to remind me of years gone by and people missed.
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  #18  
Old 03-17-2016, 09:03 PM
duckpin duckpin is offline
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Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
Brian

Where are you in CT? I used to live in Watertown.

Plenty of Cubs for sale in CT, Just get on Craigs list and type Cub Cadet in the search box.
I live in Old Lyme. The tractor is in North Franklin, where I was born and raised.

I'll know more once we try to get it running. How much compression should the engine have?

My goal would be to have this back into original condition —*so long as everything checks out. I'll keep the board posted as to what I find. I'm sure I'll have more questions if/when that happens. Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 03-17-2016, 09:35 PM
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I restored a 1000 a couple years ago. Here's the thread so you can see what you might run into:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...to_threadtools

It started out in similar condition to the one you are looking at, didn't run, was well used. I spent a lot restoring it, but I added a creeper, tires, etc. Probably put $3000 into it. Rebuilt the engine, repainted, replaced nearly all wear parts throughout. It's basically in new condition now. You won't need to go overboard like this, perhaps, but as I take things apart, I can't seem to put worn stuff back and wind up replacing more than really needed to get a functional tractor.

Good luck with your project. It's one of my favorite tractors (after my 108) and it is by far the quietest of all the tractors I've worked on. With a 42 or 44 inch mower deck, it would make quick work of your yard. I cut an acre an hour with the 108 and a 42 inch deck.
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  #20  
Old 03-17-2016, 09:58 PM
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It's not worth $350 in my opinion. If you could get it for $200 or less maybe. But I wouldn't expect to use it anytime soon. I see lots of work there. You want something to mow with I'd look elsewhere. Like was said lots other Cubs for sale. Get one of those, and if you want one to tinker with and restore get this one.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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