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  #11  
Old 01-24-2016, 11:05 AM
adamo adamo is offline
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Ok then I doubt its the acr. Like I said if you really have positive at the s/g it must be a ground issue, as a quick test to confirm you can hook a jumper cable up to the negative terminal on the batt and hook the other end to the body of the s/g and if it turns when you hit the key then you know you have a ground issue.
I did that too. Unfortunately just a click.
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2016, 11:07 AM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Sounds like a ground issue. Your model has the battery under the seat with a short negative cable attached to the frame. The engine is solid mounted to the frame so the frame is essentially the ground path. When it "clicks", what is your voltage across the battery? Also, what is the voltage at the A terminal of your generator? If both are good, Put a jumper cable on battery negative and the other end on the case of the generator. See if it cranks.

Edit: Tim beat me!
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  #13  
Old 01-24-2016, 11:27 AM
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Ok since grounding it didn't help take the jumper cable and hook it to the positive terminal on the batt and touch the other end to the outside terminal on the s/g, if it turns over then there's an issue somewhere between The positive terminal and the s/g.
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  #14  
Old 01-24-2016, 12:24 PM
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athomas athomas is offline
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Your 12v from the ign switch to the solenoid runs through the brake/neutral and pto safety switches which have to be made up to let the solenoid pull in and send power to the starter i believe. You could supply a 12v power source directly to the post on the solenoid that comes from the key/safety switch's and see if that spins it over, if so I believe one of the 2 safety switches may not be letting power flow from the ign switch to the solenoid. I've had ignition switches that where not used for a long time and the internal contacts on the switch where corroded
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2016, 12:27 PM
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Your 12v from the ign switch to the solenoid runs through the brake/neutral and pto safety switches which have to be made up to let the solenoid pull in and send power to the starter i believe. You could supply a 12v power source directly to the post on the solenoid that comes from the key/safety switch's and see if that spins it over, if so I believe one of the 2 safety switches may not be letting power flow from the ign switch to the solenoid. I've had ignition switches that where not used for a long time and the internal contacts on the switch where corroded
Be said it clicks so that would lead me to believe he's getting power from the key switch to the solenoid which means the safety switches are working if there is any, alot of older machines have had them bypassed asnthey went bad.
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2016, 12:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Post a pic of the solenoid. Was it from Cub Cadet? Are you sure it's the correct one? I don't see an answer as to whether you are getting 12V to the starter when you hear this "click". Are you? Did you wire up the new solenoid correctly? My guess is it is either the incorrect solenoid, or it's wired wrong. Some pics would help.
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2016, 12:40 PM
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The link below shows a way to start a Kohler engine with the minimum number of wires. Following this procedure will eliminate an engine problem from your troubleshooting efforts. It won't help identify what problem you have in your wiring harness, but will get your engine running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfuSEie3rHM
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  #18  
Old 01-24-2016, 12:51 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I always like to get info off YouTube. In that video, we have a guy who is replacing an engine because the old one blows head gaskets and he can't figure out why. Then he shows you how to start it, while using 18 gauge wires. That'a less than half the size they need to be. Although he does have everything hooked up correctly and it did start the motor, the maker of the video is prime reason why I hate the internet and YouTube. Because anyone with a camera can post a vid. The blind leading the people who can't see.

I suggest hanging out here and getting advice from people who actually know how to fix a Cub.
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  #19  
Old 01-24-2016, 02:26 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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adamo, That's a great story about your Grandfather and his/your 129.

If you get rid of your 129 you will never have another opportunity to pass a family owned Cub Cadet on to your offspring. With a little care and maintenance your 129 could faithfully serve you and your descendants for years to come.

The electrical systems on our old Cubs can be frustrating for someone who is new to them, but don't be discouraged, we were all new to this at one time or another.

Armed with your meter or test light and the wiring diagram that Roland posted (in post #18), choose a time when you can relax and take your time with no interruptions. Starting at the battery (pos to neg) follow the path that the electricity takes through the wiring harness, you will come to a place where the voltage drops or is interrupted.

You may want to bench test your old solenoid just to see if it was part of your original problem. Don't forget that the solenoid needs to be grounded.
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2016, 03:46 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam View Post
adamo, That's a great story about your Grandfather and his/your 129.

If you get rid of your 129 you will never have another opportunity to pass a family owned Cub Cadet on to your offspring. With a little care and maintenance your 129 could faithfully serve you and your descendants for years to come.
Yup, not haunted, just a few gremlins that need to be worked out.
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