Cub 1200 no power to starter

[pdlloyd975]

Thanks Bob.. honestly, i've started this thing in gear many many many times.. so i'm doubting that it's there.. BUT, i'll go back and try again.. I've wondered about the PTO switch.. I realize that if it's on, the engine won't start..(which it's not in the on position) but what if that switch is bad? Could that be fooling the ignition to not let the solenoid open up?

[Berwil]

The clutch switch was there when it left the factory. That means someone bypassed it, it is a possibility that their splice or patch failed over time and is no longer making contact which would allow the tractor to start. It is also possible that there are dirty commections or a bad pto switch not allowing the tractor to start. I have read where some people jiggle the pto switch while trying to start and it will start, may work. Otherwise I think you need a multimeter and wire diagram to trace out where the power stops.

Bill

[pdlloyd975]

I'll look again.. i have the original manuals for both the tractors... SO, IF i have to do that i will..but looking at the wiring diagrams, everything seems to be in place.

[R Bedell]

Here is a diagram of the Q/L Start Circuit. If everything is original, in order for the starter to engage, the PTO SW has to be in the OFF position and the Brake Pedal has to be depressed. Contacts C-D have to be closed on the PTO Switch.

Bear in mind on the Q/L Series tractors, there has to be a ground cable between frame and the engine block.

[pdlloyd975]

Thanks Roland. I'll triple check. And thanks for the diagram. I'll not be able to print to look at it until Monday. But certainly will.

[bocephus1991]

Here's some testing Info Jon sent me awhile back. This may help you.
Using a test light, hold the key in the start position and see if your getting power to the small terminal on the solenoid. If the light lights, but still no cranky, cranky.... then the solenoid is bad. If the light doesn't light, it may be a safety switch, or the key, or wiring. Trace the start wire from the key

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by bocephus1991

Here's some testing Info Jon sent me awhile back. This may help you.
Using a test light, hold the key in the start position and see if your getting power to the small terminal on the solenoid. If the light lights, but still no cranky, cranky.... then the solenoid is bad. If the light doesn't light, it may be a safety switch, or the key, or wiring. Trace the start wire from the key

That's some good advice!

[pdlloyd975]

THANKS Everyone... I HOPE to tear back into this thing and start on all the suggestions this evening. Hopefully, I will have something positive to post in the morning. Honestly, I had lost my head of steam working on this thing, but you guys have restored it. I will let you know tomorrow how it went.

[pdlloyd975]

Jonathan / Brian,

Tested and have 12v on test light to small terminal on solenoid when key is in the start position... (i replaced the solenoid prior to that), supplemental ground added from the solenoid to the frame,... again, power to small term when key in start position, but "no cranky cranky." I've replaced ground from starter to frame, replaced wire from starter to solenoid...

This tractor has a few "additions" to it.. it has elec lift, headlights, rear work light, and a creeper gear (although i know that last part has nothing to do w/my problems obviously.)

I've disconnected the headlights, the work light, and the elec lift DOES work correctly.

I feel like i have either an open circuit that's not supposed to be open, or a closed circuit that's not supposed to be closed. B/c of the lift, lights, etc, it uses more fuses that the 76 w/o those items on it. I've checked and replaced those fuses as well.

More thoughts?

[IACubCadet]

As mentioned before, you really should check the safety switch and see how the connections are. You might be getting juice there, but...how much?