Cub 1650 Oil Leak

[ol'George]

NO!
pull the iso rails and bolt them to the pan, then weld in the cross member or they will not line up if you just weld the cross bar while bolted to the rubber mounts. and make sure you clear the drop in the pan. there is a good wright up here on the forum with measurements

[mattop]

Okay! Now that winter has set in, it is time to tear into the Cub! I'm hoping to get the engine pulled out this evening so I can replace the shaft seal. Since I'll have all that apart, I suppose I'll do the cradle mount modification. Would you guys recommend pulling the oil pan off my Kohler K341 and bolting it to the rails to do the weld-up? I imagine this isn't possible to do with the entire engine. What am I getting into in removing the oil pan? Do I just need to purchase a new gasket and put it back together?

Once I get the seal figured out, I hope to track down the leak coming from the hydro and fix up the trunion plate. If I can fix all of those things, this little Cub will be in great shape!

[bluesman]

If you're not absolutely certain where the leak is coming from I would clean the engine and compartment real good and then look for the leak. If the underside of your 1650 is anything like mine there's no telling where it's leaking. That will be my early spring project as I also have an oil leak. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

[mattop]

The engine oil leak is coming from behind the flywheel cover on the rear side of the engine. I'm fairly certain the crank seal is leaking. The previous owner said he had replaced the engine mounts because they were shot. I imagine that if it was bouncing around due to worn out mounts that it probably ruined the seal.

As for the Hytran leak, it seems to be leaking toward the front of the rear end/pump assembly. It's hard to tell with the fenders on, and they're going to be a bit difficult to remove because someone messed up most of the screws. My best guess was the cork seal based on location and the number of people saying this seal has failed. I already had the relief valves rebuilt, as I thought that was the leak. It was some of it, but not all of it.

[mortten]

You want to get to that oil leak ASAP. Those new engine mounts won't like being soaked with oil.

[64fleetside]

On the fender pan get a good 17/64 bit and 5/16 tap and go to town. Just did it Monday on the 1650 I got a while back. I think 3 came out, the rest I drilled out.
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[mattop]

A friend and I successfully pulled the engine out of the tractor and we were able to get all the foot board screws out somehow, so now the fenders are off too!

I need to acquire a puller to get that massive flywheel off and clean everything up. The crank seal is what is leaking, no doubt. The transmission leak might be more of an investigation to be sure.

I'm very happy with the progress in one night, though. That flywheel scares me a little bit.

[mattop]

One other thing I wanted to ask:

Is there an easier way to create a jig of sorts to do the engine cradle mod rather than pulling the oil pan from the Kohler, or is that my only option?

[sawdustdad]

buy or find a spare oil pan and use that as a jig. The aluminum pans are easy to find (not in demand like the cast iron pans) and work fine as a jig (assuming the bolt holes still have threads in them).

[mattop]

Do you know if the K series all share the same oil pan size? I found a pretty cheap oil pan from a K181, but I don't know if the bolt holes are in the same place.