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#11
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I gotta agree with dvogtvpe, once in awhile if they are badly pitted, I will feel the need to put new points on a "new to me" tractor, but not normally.
They last for eons, I don't see any need to try and improve on something that is already nearly fail proof. Just my opinion.
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#12
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I never change points unless they are worn nubs or burned up blue cause ign was left on. My '63 chevy still has the original points as well as my 71 Cheyenne. that I know for sure! Don't need no stinkin eee lectronic ing. systems. Give me a set of points and a carburetor any day! |
#13
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A good set of points will last for years... don't go for the cheap ones... I believe that you will find the points saver to be the problem.. a bad condenser will cause the same issue also... been there done that with a KT 17 in a 782.
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
#14
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The OP already has the Pointsaver installed , so why not try to eliminate the carb. as a source of the problem ??? If it is not the carb and it ends up being the Pointsaver , i am sure the seller will stand behind it.
I agree about the points lasting , but the person has already spent the money and installed the Pointsaver. The carb may just have a piece of trash in it , and it may need rebuilding , maybe a throttle shaft bushing installed. |
#15
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ok, He can do whatever he wants. it ran ok before, then he messed with it, now he has an issue. you should go back and verify what you have done. only takes a few min. to unhook the pointsaver and put the old condenser on, rather than order a carb kit. clean the carb and risk more opportunity to make another problem and then you have maybe 2 problems and you really don't know what to do. ever read how many people on this forum rebuild or clean carbs and have problems afterward?
personally if it was running good I would never have messed with it in the first place . but that's just me and its just my opinion. but then again I work on more engines in a year than the majority of the people on the forum do combined. |
#16
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First things first, if it was running good I wouldn't have "messed with it". But I had noticed a decline in performance since I had bought it a couple years ago so I figured it was time for a tune up. If I just wanted to mess with it I would have installed the new points and Pointsaver 2 years ago when I bought them with some other things from Kirk Engines. A product and vender of which I'd read nothing but good reviews of. Before anyone decides that I'm not listening to their suggestions let me say that I've had about 30 minutes to work on the machine since I originally posted. I fully intend to attempt reinstalling the condenser to eliminate the Pointsaver as the problem before I order any parts. But I fail to see how the pointsaver can cause straight fuel to be dripping from the carb. |
#17
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If you have gas dripping from the carb. then yes, you have crud in the needle preventing it from stopping flow and possibly restricting flow while the tractor is running. If gas is not running out the throat of the carb. while it is just setting with the engine not running (and the fuel valve open) then this is probably not the problem.
Don't monkey around trying to clean the inlet out with the carb. on the tractor. Take the carb. off remove the elbow, the bowl, float and needle. holding the carb. with the inlet down, use your favorite spritz to spray the passage out until it's clear of all foreign matter. Probably best to clean the tank and filter out along with replacing the hose. Put it back together and try again. If it still does the same thing, put the condenser back on and see what happens. Don't let this turn into 2 problems at the same once, you'll make yourself crazy tying to figger it out. 90% of all carburetor problems are electrical.
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#18
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I got a k301 in my 1211. It did that popping backfiring crap a couple weeks ago, turned out the condenser wire broke right where it goes into the condenser. Couldn't tell by looking, but that's all it was. New condenser and she ran like a top. Like others said get your carb fixed, nothing more aggravating than two problems at once feeding off one another.
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! ![]() |
#19
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i say clean the carb, its maintenance anyhow. adjust the carb and see how she runs. if still rough, then maybe move forward. take the plug out and look at the spark too. nice and crisp blue i wouldnt worry about the condenser.
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#20
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WOW! Look at the debate!!
![]() And to think..... I wasn't even involved! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() I have a question: In your video.... you don't have an air filter or muffler on. Neither of which would be required to remove to repair or replace anything you mentioned. (Aside from cleaning the carb..... you have to take the filter housing off for that.) So.... when you were mowing with it, was the muffler and air cleaner on it? Why is the muffler off anyway? |
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