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PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
#11
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When I swapped in a cast iron pan for the stripped Aluminum one that was in there, I saw that it had pounded for so long with only 1 bolt in it, that it pounded dimples in the cradle where the pan pads sit.
Someone must have ran it a long time that way. So I welded them up and and them spot faced them in the mill to insure flat parallel surfaces for the pan pads, or feet if you prefer, to mount to. I then bolted the pan to the rails then added the cross brace modification to insure everything was square with the world. Worked like a charm, I highly advise taking the little extra time to do it right. Lucky the rubber mounts were in good shape, so they got reused. Now thats my story and I'm sticking to it |
#12
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I'm alone on this one, but I'll speak my mind anyway.
All other GT the engine is mounted solid. ALL TRACTORS the engine is mounted solid. It won't vibrate any more than any other machine with solid mounts, it's easier on the driveline, the motor and everything attached to it. I hate the rubber mount system. Only thing it causes is more issues. I'm done. |
#13
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So is the difference in vibration levels even noticeable with solid mount vs rubber?
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#14
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From a pure reliability standpoint, J-Mech is spot on. The rubber mounts are a maintenance item and complicate and stress the driveline.
From a comfort standpoint, I think the iso mounts help. Do they help enough to justify the effort? I don't know. Never ran a QL without them. But there is a close comparison... The 108 (K241) didn't have balance gears and was solid mounted. I think a 1000 would behave similarly with a solid mount system. In 30 years of using my 108, I never complained about the vi-vi-vi-bra-bra-tion-tion-tion... ![]()
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#15
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I removed the balance gears from my 149 and did not notice a difference in vibration until I shut down and then the front has a cute lil' wiggle, but nothing major. Does anyone know where I can get the solid mounts? Website? I can at least look into it.
Again, I appreciate everyone's input. Jonathan, opinions are always welcome in my threads....so no problem. If I am to make an informed decision, then I want as much information as I possibly can acquire. I just got my 1200 as a worker and the yards I mow with it are city lots that take about 15 min. each, so if I shake a little then it might excite the neighbors and might cause me to loose a few lbs. ![]() Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. ![]() |
#16
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I beleive Jeffinpa makes solid mounts, check his thread in the resources page.
![]() Bill |
#17
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Jeff in pa makes a mount kit, I suggest you contact him.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#18
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#19
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#20
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My
![]() I had a 1450 that I put Moog bushings in as a cheaper alternative to the CC priced ISO's. Idle was shaky, mid was shaky, WOT was just fine. I tried different torque amounts on the ISO's and all had a similar effect. I have used a 1000 with good stock ISO's and it was just fine. FOR ME, it was not noticeably better than previous Cubs or ones that came after but I could see how with a good set of new ones it'd be just fine. I will also say that I have never driven a Cub that had new CC ISO's set up properly. All that being said, if I ever get a Quietline again I will be going solid.
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-Ryan
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