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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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When the clutch pedal depressed, the drive shaft LOCKS UP and the rear tires LOCK UP.
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#12
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Quote:
Are you expecting it to shift like a car? You must come to a compete stop to change gears.
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#13
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How does the clutch work as a brake, too? Can I adjust that back out so it works and shifts as it did the last time I used it? Without the "braking" feature on the driveshaft?
This problem appeared a day after hard mowing. |
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#14
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Ok, listen.... The driveshaft isn't supposed to LOCK UP, but it is supposed to stop turning. It should not grind when you go to put it in gear, and if the gears won't just slide in, you may have to let out on the clutch a little then depress it again to get it into gear. This is all very normal.
The brake is tied to the clutch pedal through a system of linkage. You can see it if you lay down and look up under the machine in the middle. GO HERE: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644 Download that manual and read up on how to adjust the clutch and the brake. Look over all the parts and then come back WITH SOME PICS if you find anything wrong. We are all just guessing until you look at it and see if there is anything indeed wrong, and what that may be. You are going to have to go look. |
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#15
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Thank you, my driveshaft and entire drivetrain locks up when the pedal is pushed PAST the clutch disengage point.
Now read: my brakes are completely non functional and disconnected on the tractor. Something is not right as it does not working like my other QL 1000 and my other QL 1200. I will try to the clutch in the opposite direction when you lose brake/clutch pedal. |
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#16
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motor mounts shot and binding things up because the driveline is out of alignment ?
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#17
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I think you are exactly right. I mow/disc/drag harrow some VERY rough ground.
My wife mowed some real easy grass by our barn today and I told her to mow in 1st and stay off the clutch. It went ok. Looks like an engine dismount in August. |
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#18
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you need to do it much sooner than august, if you run it with bad mounts you can break the 3 pin driver and its very expensive.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#19
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Mystery solved. I ran the mower for a couple of hours this morning. At first it ran great, just as it always had, no lock up or binding.
Then I hit some roots pretty hard with the blades. And suddenly it started again. Push the clutch in and the tractor comes to a screeching halt. Wheels and drivetrain lock up. After careful examination, I found the throw out bearing severely worn, missing the cap and some balls too. So when I push the clutch in, puts the driveshaft in a bind and total lock up. I need throw out bearing bad. And what a good time to do a complete update on the whole clutch system. I talked to Zach Kerber and will take his advice on various parts to buy. Thanks to all for replys! |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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