Drive shaft removal ........ - Page 2

finsruskw · #11 05-04-2015, 09:28 AM

Ball is just at the rear.
The front end of the DS slips into a roller bushing that is pressed into the 4 bolt coupler on the flywheel. This is the part the DS pinned coupler and front rag joint bolts to. Undo the 4 bolts there and the DS will slip right out of the roller coupler.They are replaceable, many times they are shot due to worn out cradle mounts, loose mounting bolts, worn out rag joints, bent or mis-aligned drive shafts, etc...etc...

Oh yes, and the snap ring for the fan is a thicker heavy duty piece, not a real skinny /thin one like you might expect. Should be available fro CCC, maybe you should order one when you get the fan.

dustycubby · #12 05-04-2015, 09:32 AM

Thanks for that. Today it's raining and I will go out and take it apart. Hopefully things aren't torn up to bad. First thing is I have to clean up about 3" of the shaft so the coupling will slide up on it after I get the pins out. thanks. RJ

dustycubby · #13 05-04-2015, 03:24 PM

Thanks finsruskw, I did as you said and for only having to turn down an old punch to get the hydro flange pin out it wasn't that bad. I took some pics of what I got.
I see that the rear brass bushing is cracked. Now is that bushing replaceable? I can't seem to get it out of the rear hub? The front (engine) side has a ball type bushing in it and it appears to be somewhat worn, however not bad. Do I have to replace that? I will clean the shaft ( which appears to be in decent shape except for a flat spot on the engine end. I will show that in a picture as well. As for the pins, can I just use new roll pins or do I have to buy original cub cadet pins? I received the flex discs today from sawdustdad (thanks very much) and they look great. Wasn't much left to the old discs after I got them off. I have to cleanup the shaft and see how that comes out . Thanks again for the help the first cub I have is giving me an education. RJ

finsruskw · #14 05-04-2015, 09:22 PM

Dusty, they are not just plain old roll pins. Look at the ends of them, you will see the difference. Your Cub dealer should stock them, or, any implement store worth their salt will have them. I'm thinking Case IH or even.....cough....gag....the green store place!!

Inspect them closely, if they don't show signs of fatigue or cracking you could probably reuse them.

The ball bushing is part #941-3004. Take a look on e-bay, they are usually on there. CC wants like $26 for 'em, I bought a 4 pack a couple weeks ago from an e-bay vendor for the same amount!! Pays to shop around.

a vise and a couple different size sockets is all you need to press the old ones out and the new one in. one small enough to press on the OD of the bushing and another large enough to receive it. It comes out as an assembly from the coupler.

The flat spot on the drive shaft??? I don't know...probably caused by the cracked bushing??? or the flat spot caused the bushing to crack??? or mis- aligned DS due to worn out ISO mounts cause it all?? Probably a combination of it all. I'm sure someone else will chime in here on that.

Anyway, do it right the first time and it will give you many years of service life.

dustycubby · #15 05-04-2015, 10:10 PM

Thanks. The flat spot on the shaft is on the engine end I believe it is because that busing popped out of the bearing assembly. It was loose in the assembly and I thought it was a problem. I think I am going to try to find new pins. The one on the shaft side is kind of bent. The other I had to really hit and it deformed the end a bit. Has any one tried pressing in the pins with a home made type hand press ? I think I have an idea for one. Just don't like pounding on that shaft and pump even with a jack under it. Thanks again I will look around for the bearing and bushing. RJ

dustycubby · #16 05-04-2015, 10:47 PM

Was just reading about the spirol pins here on the internet. Seems that they take shock as well as hold at the ends. The don't normally move in the hole causing elongation. I will admit that the prices for these pins are all over the place. I've seen prices as little as $ 1.95 ea for the 1/4' X 1 1/4" to $ 9.00 each! I have a Dr. appointment tomorrow and I will check when I am in that town to see what the CC dealer there wants for them. I am thinking of talking to a friend of mine who makes tools about making a hand held tool to remove and install them. Seems plausible to me but he is an expert and will know the fallacy of my thinking. Will also be checking on the bushing and race for the pump disc flange, and the bushing flange at the motor. I have the numbers and hopefully they can get me prices. RJ

finsruskw · #17 05-05-2015, 08:48 AM

A roll pin punch is all you really need. If Ya can't find the pins, PM me your address and I'll pop a couple in the mail. I buy 'em by the box from McMaster Carr, great supplier! Nothing special. Just support the DS is all don't put all the weigh of the tractor on it. I just use a hardwood 1X2 the right length between the DS, snug again the coupler and the top of my table.