2072 carburetor problems?

[twingard]

thanks for all the advice...got it soaking in "gunk" right now.....I am not sure how long this tractor did sit before I got it...It seemed to run fine for me but never ran it for an extended period of time..thanks again for the help

[drcjv]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I read these threads all the time and I don't understand it. If the carb has been sitting for years and has dried up crud and rust in it, I'll soak it. If it's off a runner that suddenly "gunked up", or one that has ran in the distant past (6mo-1yr) and has gas in it, I just pull it apart and rebuild. Never had any issues getting one cleaned out of the first try.

It is my understanding that you are a mechanic working for many years on this type of stuff on a daily basis. I would expect you would have better results than many of the guys that do this like me for a hobby. I would be willing to bet that you could take a simple lock a part and put it back together. I would also bet that my master locksmiths could do it faster, easier and repair any problems that you might not even see was there. Not sure why it is so hard to understand that we are not all mechanics. I thought that was one of the purposes of this board, for less experianced members to get help from the more experianced. We are all at different levels of knowledge and ability in this hobby from a newbie getting his first tractor all the way to an expert like you.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by drcjv

It is my understanding that you are a mechanic working for many years on this type of stuff on a daily basis. I would expect you would have better results than many of the guys that do this like me for a hobby. I would be willing to bet that you could take a simple lock a part and put it back together. I would also bet that my master locksmiths could do it faster, easier and repair any problems that you might not even see was there. Not sure why it is so hard to understand that we are not all mechanics. I thought that was one of the purposes of this board, for less experianced members to get help from the more experianced. We are all at different levels of knowledge and ability in this hobby from a newbie getting his first tractor all the way to an expert like you.

I hear you, and I'll explain.
Yes, I understand that some people may be taking their first carb apart and I can see that it may be somewhat intimidating. But here is the simple truth. It's just like helping your wife do the dishes. Lets use somthing somewhat complicated like say, a food processor. You can't just set the whole thing down in the water assembled and then rinse it off and call it clean. First of all, your wife may be somewhat upset..... but also, it won't be clean. You have to disassemble it..... COMPLETELY. (Just ask your wife. ). Then, you have to clean all the parts and not just dip them in the water and rinse them.... no, you have to clean the parts. You have to wash the nooks and crannies of the blades, and all the little corners and stuff. If you've ever washed a baby bottle, that's another good example. If you don't use the bottle brush down inside, and in the nipple, you won't get it clean. A carburetor is just like that. You take it all apart and clean it. You have to get all the nooks, crannies, corners, and most of all THE PASSAGES. You can't blow air through it an call it good. I don't know about any of you, but I can't see air escaping. So, here is some advice: Use anything in a pressurized can with a straw. Brake cleaner would be the best choice, but WD-40 will do if you don't have any. Put the straw in the hole and pull the trigger. You will see it spray out of the other end of the hole. If it doesn't spray out, it's plugged. Take a small wire, torch tip cleaner, pin, whatever and stick it in the hole and get that crud out!!! It HAS to be clear! The most common missed areas are the emulsion tube, and the main needle valve, which is hollow. You can see the holes in it. You must, must, must get all the crud out of the passages or it's not going to work. Sometimes you can't get the main needle clear.... you just have to replace it. No way to get inside of it. On another note: when using brake cleaner to spray in the passages.... wear eye protection. You won't like it when the other end of that hole your spraying in is aimed back at your face. BTDT.

It's not a difficult task, nor does it require any kind of experience. Just patience, and persistence. You can't find a plugged hole and say "oh, well I cleaned all the others, it will run". No, it may not. They must all be clear. That was my point.

[drcjv]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I hear you, and I'll explain.
Yes, I understand that some people may be taking their first carb apart and I can see that it may be somewhat intimidating. But here is the simple truth. It's just like helping your wife do the dishes. Lets use somthing somewhat complicated like say, a food processor. You can't just set the whole thing down in the water assembled and then rinse it off and call it clean. First of all, your wife may be somewhat upset..... but also, it won't be clean. You have to disassemble it..... COMPLETELY. (Just ask your wife. ). Then, you have to clean all the parts and not just dip them in the water and rinse them.... no, you have to clean the parts. You have to wash the nooks and crannies of the blades, and all the little corners and stuff. If you've ever washed a baby bottle, that's another good example. If you don't use the bottle brush down inside, and in the nipple, you won't get it clean. A carburetor is just like that. You take it all apart and clean it. You have to get all the nooks, crannies, corners, and most of all THE PASSAGES. You can't blow air through it an call it good. I don't know about any of you, but I can't see air escaping. So, here is some advice: Use anything in a pressurized can with a straw. Brake cleaner would be the best choice, but WD-40 will do if you don't have any. Put the straw in the hole and pull the trigger. You will see it spray out of the other end of the hole. If it doesn't spray out, it's plugged. Take a small wire, torch tip cleaner, pin, whatever and stick it in the hole and get that crud out!!! It HAS to be clear! The most common missed areas are the emulsion tube, and the main needle valve, which is hollow. You can see the holes in it. You must, must, must get all the crud out of the passages or it's not going to work. Sometimes you can't get the main needle clear.... you just have to replace it. No way to get inside of it. On another note: when using brake cleaner to spray in the passages.... wear eye protection. You won't like it when the other end of that hole your spraying in is aimed back at your face. BTDT.

It's not a difficult task, nor does it require any kind of experience. Just patience, and persistence. You can't find a plugged hole and say "oh, well I cleaned all the others, it will run". No, it may not. They must all be clear. That was my point.

Jonathan to my point exactly you are an expert and just gave some real good and helpful information. This post would have been much better as your first post in this thread rather than your third. I think anybody reading would have a better understanding of what is required to clean a carb.

[twingard]

just an update as far as my carb problems...my dad went to cub dealer to buy a carb rebuild kit (same dealer we bought tractor from in the first place).....he was told that when they got the tractor they had the same issue (fall of 2014) they thought it was water in the tank so they replaced the fuel cap...the dealer thought they had the problem fixed because it cut for 15 min. or so.....then the tractor sat outside all winter until I bought it in march.....I already have the carb apart so that's gonna get a rebuild and im gonna take the tank out and drain it.....any other suggestions before I put it back together? thanks again hope I ain't a pain in the butt

ps. when I changed the oil it was a bit milky lookin...I chalked it up to just sitting to long and condensation

[J-Mech]

That's a good place to start! It may fix it. Do that and report back.

[twingard]

so clearly im not an expert with carbs first time tearing one apart...but the more im messing around here I think im understanding more what is goin on....so ill try n make this as short as I can...so I put carb back together today (all the pieces that I bought the tractor with) put it on the tractor, took the tank out drained the tank and put fresh gas in...ran good for around 20 minutes then started choking down again....looked at the carb on the tractor and saw gas coming from around the bowl...took the carb back off and took the bowl off....and then realized that there was no needle to shut the fuel off....my float moves freely but theres nothing to contact it to shut the fuel off......also I can only crack the shutoff valve under the tank open if I open it the full way it completely floods everything immediately......so I guess first question is does this sound right or am I way off base? 2nd question is I did buy a rebuild kit but it did not have a needle valve are they available at all? thanks again for your time

[J-Mech]

It MUST have a needle valve.

The rebuild kit should have had one. Are you sure it didn't? How about a part number....

[twingard]

I am about 99% sure that before I bought this tractor someone had takin the needle valve out PO I suppose...cause I took carb apart over a 2 qt. tub just incase anything did fall out...the kit did not have one (not sure why not) luckily my dad had one and it seemed to have cured the problem...ran the tractor for about 45 minutes and didn't choke down at all...im thinking and hoping that was my problem all along, that there was no needle valve and it was just starting to flood after 15 or 20 minutes..and ill certainly know where to start lookin if this happens again

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by twingard

I am about 99% sure that before I bought this tractor someone had takin the needle valve out

It would have never ran if that was the case. Fuel would have poured out of it all the time.