Drive shaft pin

[J-Mech]

I've worked on many cubs that still had the original pin, and the same goes for the rag joints. I'd say 40+ years is a pretty good test of time. If your pin keeps falling out, I'd say that it's time to replace the shaft. Or, like Don said, put some loc-tite on it. Both types of drives are fine, they don't need to be "switched over", just repaired. Take a few minutes, spend a few dollars and it will last another 40 years.

[64fleetside]

I dunno Jon-I replaced the driveshaft and pin in November and had the coupler machined on my 129, and it is already loose after about 3 hrs run time. I expected 40 more yrs, but don't think it will happen. I'm looking hard at some other solution like the rag joint on Quietlines.

[Sam Mac]

This is what I did on my 149. It's part of a 2000 series, the hub bolts to the same place on the engine as your existing drive plate. The tube just slips over your existing drive shaft and then you drill it and put a spirol pin in it. Also makes it easy to remove the shaft if you need to replace the rag joint at the pump.

[64fleetside]

That looks like a good solution there, Sam.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

I dunno Jon-I replaced the driveshaft and pin in November and had the coupler machined on my 129, and it is already loose after about 3 hrs run time. I expected 40 more yrs, but don't think it will happen. I'm looking hard at some other solution like the rag joint on Quietlines.

That is odd..... It should have lasted longer. Perhaps you have another issue that is putting too much strain on the pin?

My buddy Chris has a 169. We replaced the driveshaft in it and the pin also..... I think he mentioned the other day that he was still having issues also. We haven't looked into it yet.... and my memory is not great, so I don't remember details. He will be in here today as I'm working on one of his trucks. I'll ask him.

[garnold]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

This is what I did on my 149. It's part of a 2000 series, the hub bolts to the same place on the engine as your existing drive plate. The tube just slips over your existing drive shaft and then you drill it and put a spirol pin in it. Also makes it easy to remove the shaft if you need to replace the rag joint at the pump.

That's pretty slick indeed

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

This is what I did on my 149. It's part of a 2000 series, the hub bolts to the same place on the engine as your existing drive plate. The tube just slips over your existing drive shaft and then you drill it and put a spirol pin in it. Also makes it easy to remove the shaft if you need to replace the rag joint at the pump.

Sam Mac, When I redid my 149 I went with the rag joints at both ends, but I really like your mod and trying to get the facts in case I ever do another. So some questions if you don't mind....

Since you said a 2000 series I just randomly pulled up a diagram of a 2130. So are you saying the drive shaft here (part #1) is hollow and the i.d. is the same as the o.d. of the 149 (5/8" I think), and you just cut the motor end off of the 2XXX shaft, Correct?? How long is the 2XXX piece and is anything cut off the 149 shaft?? Any machining involved?? Thanks in advance.

[Sam Mac]

The ID is 5/8" so all I did was put the shaft in my chop saw and cut it about 8'' from the end. Bolt the hub the engine (bolt pattern is the same) Cut the damage part of the OEM shaft off. Slip the 2000 section over the 149 shaft, assemble it to get the finished length, mark it. Remove the shaft drill it and pin it. Put it back in the tractor. Sounds more complicated than it is. You'll need a complete shaft for a 2000 series. Doesn't matter they only thing different is length and your going to be cutting it anyway. One shaft is enough to do 2 tractors. Try the sponsors at the top for the shaft.

[DoubleO7]

Looks like both ends of the 2000 series shaft are the same.
Thus you can cut it and use it on two tractors?

Is there some polyurethane rod pieces in the bolt on hub that absorbs shock loads or slight misalignment ?

[CubCadet129]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

If you are referring to the pin in the front of the shaft, it is a (solid) steel dowel type pin, a spiral pin will only last a few minutes in there and a roll pin won't last very long either.

If the hole is enlarged I have taken the shaft out and smacked the hole with a hammer on one side and then drove a new pin in from the other side. It's still in there (I guess, it still drives).

If you are talking about the pin in the rear flange on the transmission input shaft, then my best guess would be a heavy duty spiral pin.

I've never seen an aluminum coupler.

I think the flywheel cup is aluminum but the actual coupler is steel, at least the one i have on my 129 and the pin isn't a dowel pin or a roll pin its a spiral pin!!