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  #11  
Old 12-19-2014, 06:32 AM
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ford4150 ford4150 is offline
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I use a needle scaler on the transmission, axles, etc. Runs on compressed air.
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  #12  
Old 12-19-2014, 08:04 AM
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CSXengr CSXengr is offline
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[QUOTE=CADplans;300992]How far are you from Roanoke VA?? I got some stuff that you might need.

This one is still here 'cause it has a creeper,,,,,,,,


Man yes I need some things!!!! Maybe that will help with this yellow fever. I am not but about 2 half 3 hours from Roanoke.

PM sent.

And thanks to everyone for the info. Ok no sand on rear end. And we probably will just replace the rear plate gasket after we change the oil. It seems to be the only one that has been leaking in the past.
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  #13  
Old 12-19-2014, 09:48 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
Do not sand blast the transmission, rear end or axle tubes sand will get into places you don't want it getting in.
It will be fine. I've painted quite a few machines. Sandblasted the entire machine with no issues. Just don't be stupid about it. Water blasting is the cleanest way.
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  #14  
Old 12-19-2014, 09:50 AM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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Rear gasket change will happen DURING your oil change. Have a new one on hand before you tackle that. Pull a straight-edge over your rear plate to check if the bolt holes have deformed. Hammer peen it back flat if needed. I use perma-tex gasket sealer...which is basically a dark brown tar-like glue. Lots of folks just put the gasket back on dry and never have any trouble.
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  #15  
Old 12-19-2014, 06:48 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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It will be fine. Sandblasted the entire machine with no issues.
Agreed, my ghost edition original and then blasting again what was missed. Flush and drain what has oil in it and no worries.

image.jpg

Dang, upside down again, I gotta learn how to fix this stuff
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  #16  
Old 12-21-2014, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
It will be fine. I've painted quite a few machines. Sandblasted the entire machine with no issues. Just don't be stupid about it. Water blasting is the cleanest way.
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Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Agreed, my ghost edition original and then blasting again what was missed. Flush and drain what has oil in it and no worries.
You fellers have at it. I've seen machines come back after being painted from three different blasters and just way to much sand left behind in the nooks and crannies. You can try and flush it all out and it'll still be there when you're done.
Different strokes for different folks.
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Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
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  #17  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:00 PM
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I hear you Todd, but It's completely disassembled now including the engine, just thought about doing this one differently and I have to say it takes a lot of the prep times down, it had so many layers to begin with it was ridiculous.
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  #18  
Old 12-21-2014, 10:17 PM
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I use a needle scaler on the transmission, axles, etc. Runs on compressed air.
Thanks, my brother has one of those. But we are probably just pressure washing primeing and painting the rear end. Sandblasting the rest. He and I restored a old Troybuilt tiller last summer that turned out great. Reworked the engine, transmission, and tines and he used that scaler on lot of the smaller parts.
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