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#11
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#12
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I don't think that suggesting that the man clean up the engine, change the oil, and check or replace a few key components is going too far.
Also, I did preface my suggestions by saying, "If it were me, I'd..." It would stand to reason that if you buy a 42 year old used garden tractor, you probably need to do a little maintenance. I did not tell him to rebuild the engine. In fact, I said it is probably not a bad crank shaft. There is one thing I know for sure. If you don't perform routine maintenance, you are headed toward a rebuild sooner than later. My advice is focused on three points. Number 1: Clean the engine so it does not over heat during operation. Number 2: Freshen up the ignition system so you get maximum performance. Number 3: Freshen up the carburetor so you get the proper fuel flow for maximum performance. You can cut corners, but why would you want to? If you want a "turn key" tractor, there are plenty of brand new ones to choose from. I love the 149. I only want what's best for those that remain in service.
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Tractor #1--1972 Model 149 with rear lift Tractor #2--1972 Model 149 with rear lift 1A tiller w/both extensions, 38" & 42" Mower Decks, Wheel Weights, Ohio Steel Fabricators 10" mold board plow, two 42" snow blades, QA-42A Snow Thrower, Brinly Sleeve Hitch |
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#13
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All good things to do, if they need done. Point is, the question wasn't: "My motor is running bad, what do I need to do?" It was a driveshaft question. If your going to say all that he just as well replace the wheel bearings, pull the rear end and replace all the seals and gaskets, rebuild the steering column, on and on...... If it isn't running bad, leave it alone. If it is, then do all that stuff.
Now, if you buy a machine that has been sitting for a few years or doesn't run at all, then sure, pull it apart. But if it runs good, change the oil, check the plug, clean the fuel filter and run it. I'm fine with fixing stuff, when the time comes.
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#14
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Above is what he wrote. He asked for any other ideas, so I gave him a few suggestions. He is clearly stating that the engine is not running well. I'm merely suggesting that he give it a cleaning and a basic tune up. The stuff I'm suggesting is a weekend project. I enjoy working on my Cubs. I assume others do as well.
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Tractor #1--1972 Model 149 with rear lift Tractor #2--1972 Model 149 with rear lift 1A tiller w/both extensions, 38" & 42" Mower Decks, Wheel Weights, Ohio Steel Fabricators 10" mold board plow, two 42" snow blades, QA-42A Snow Thrower, Brinly Sleeve Hitch |
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#15
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#16
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When I buy a "new to me" Cub, I want to know what I've got. I want to know that the combustion chamber is clean, I want to know that the spark plug is new and gapped correctly, I want to know that the points are not pitted and corroded, I want to know that the timing is set precisely, I want to know that the carburetor jets are open and unvarnished and that the float is leveled correctly, I want to know that the air filter is clean, I want to know the motor oil is fresh and of good quality, I want to know if the cylinder has been bored, I want to know that the valve lash is gapped correctly, I want to know that all of my electrical connections are clean and tight, I want to know that the cooling fins are free of dirt and debris, etc. None of these things involve what I would consider a major disassembly of the engine or the tractor. I believe what I've provided is sound advice to a "new to me" Cub owner. Anyone who is interested in these old machines must own a few tools and enjoy turning a wrench. For less than $100 in parts, a man could complete this project in one weekend of blissful tinkering! And yes, eventually I will rebuild the steering column. I will check and adjust the disk brakes. I will track down every leak and fix it. I will get a new seat. I will replace the cracked belt on that mower deck before it fails. I will clean the fins on that dirty hydro pump, I will replace that cooling fan on the drive shaft with two blades missing. I will weld and file that hydro trunnion. I will put tubes in those leaky front tires. I will do it all. What I've just described above is, for me, the joy of owning a 42 year old American classic. One further point of clarification. I would never perform a service or repair that I did not think was necessary. We all know that preventive maintenance goes a long way toward mitigating more costly repairs down the road. Why wait for it to break?
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Tractor #1--1972 Model 149 with rear lift Tractor #2--1972 Model 149 with rear lift 1A tiller w/both extensions, 38" & 42" Mower Decks, Wheel Weights, Ohio Steel Fabricators 10" mold board plow, two 42" snow blades, QA-42A Snow Thrower, Brinly Sleeve Hitch |
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#17
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Listen Sharky, you are completely missing the boat here.
If you came into my shop and told me about a u-joint problem you were having with your truck and I told you how you needed to take the motor apart and tune it up, maybe pull the intake and clean it because they're bad about carboning up..... replace the spark plugs, tune it up. You would be like: "But, I just was asking about a u-joint. What's that got to do with the engine?" Do you follow? Advice is good. Relative advice is better. If this thread was about an engine problem, then I would agree. It's not, so lets try to keep it within the problematic area shall we? |
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#18
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I disagree, but we can agree to disagree.
Quote:
That "knock" is more likely a miss, which would be corrected with a good tune up and/or timing reset and or carburetor cleaning, etc.
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Tractor #1--1972 Model 149 with rear lift Tractor #2--1972 Model 149 with rear lift 1A tiller w/both extensions, 38" & 42" Mower Decks, Wheel Weights, Ohio Steel Fabricators 10" mold board plow, two 42" snow blades, QA-42A Snow Thrower, Brinly Sleeve Hitch |
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#19
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If you say so. I seriously doubt it but we'll see.
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#20
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Weird ive never heard a miss sound like a knock...he also stated that the "knock" started after it launched the driveshaft pin....throwing breaking or otherwise losing that pin in no way shape or form so cause a knock all of a sudden.... my guess is that pin eather broke or fell out years ago and the PO simply replaced it with a bolt...I've done the myself a time or two in a pinch and I can speak from experience that if its not a locking type nut it will not stay in there long and will shoot out suddenly....who would also wear out the slot/hole in a short amount of time.... im betting a new driver and/or shaft will cure this issue.
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No more cubs. But never fear there will be more ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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