New to me "Original" - Page 2

Diesel Krazy · #11 09-22-2014, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoundDog

I saw that bare foot youngin in another thread. That right there tells me how easy it should be. I'll check it out in a few days.
I was looking at portable sand blasters and found one for $130. I forget the specifics, but it'd sure be handy. I also would like to buy new gaskets and seals and wheel bushings, so I'm still trying to locate all that stuff. After all that's in, I'll start breaking it down for paint.

Gaskets seals and wheel bushings were all available at my local Cub Cadet dealer. My dealer surprisingly had most all of them in stock. The pedal return spring is the only part I found so far that I needed that wasn't available. My original return spring broke a few days ago and I was able to find a close match at Farm and Fleet.

HoundDog · #12 09-22-2014, 10:11 PM

Thanks for the info. I'll check in with the local guy and see what he has.

Does anyone have a somewhat close up pic of the throttle cable where it connects to the governor/linkage?
My cable is freed up, but when I install it back into the engine side and put cable clamp back on the arm near the exhaust port, it binds up. I've messed with it till I had to get away from it. Something so simple turns into aggravation...

FYN409 · #13 09-23-2014, 07:57 AM

I am actually running into that same issue and that is with a replacement cable. It works smoothly for part of the throttle but binds on the top end. I have fiddled with it on and off for a couple of days but still have not resolved it.

HoundDog · #14 09-23-2014, 10:16 AM

That's how I got mine too. Just part throttle. If I can't get it to function properly, I'll come up with something else. It may not be original, but it'll work like it should.

Sam Mac · #15 09-23-2014, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoundDog

Thanks for the info. I'll check in with the local guy and see what he has.

Does anyone have a somewhat close up pic of the throttle cable where it connects to the governor/linkage?
My cable is freed up, but when I install it back into the engine side and put cable clamp back on the arm near the exhaust port, it binds up. I've messed with it till I had to get away from it. Something so simple turns into aggravation...

I'll try to get a pic of mine for you guys. I had to put a bend in the cable end as I recall to get it to operate correctly.

Sam Mac · #16 09-23-2014, 10:52 AM

Pics as promised, hope it helps.

HoundDog · #17 09-23-2014, 11:08 AM

Thanks Sam. The arm that's hold the cable clamp on mine is not pointed down like yours. It's pointed up towards the exhaust 90. I knew if I could roll that arm down, the cable would work right. But, I can't get the arm to swing down like yours. Do I have to loosen something so I can move the arm?

Sam Mac · #18 09-23-2014, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HoundDog

Thanks Sam. The arm that's hold the cable clamp on mine is not pointed down like yours. It's pointed up towards the exhaust 90. I knew if I could roll that arm down, the cable would work right. But, I can't get the arm to swing down like yours. Do I have to loosen something so I can move the arm?

Download the engine service manual.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4646

Looks like you loosen what they call the bushing nut to move the bracket. Think it's around page 6.26. I never played with the one I have.

Alvy · #19 09-23-2014, 12:40 PM

Yes the bushing nut has a shoulder on it and that arm is just held in there with pressure on it from the nut. All part of the governor adjustment procedure

HoundDog · #20 09-25-2014, 12:16 PM

I got the throttle cable lined out. It has a few leaking gaskets, so I removed the sediment bowl (leaks), carb....all gaskets there leak, breather was leaking and absolutely filthy inside. Looks like it had carbon in the area where the valves stems and springs are. Cleaned all that and ordered all new gaskets. Figured I'd remove the head and clean the top end off while I'm at it, so I ordered a new head gasket. The float bowl had sand in the bottom. The oil bath cleaner had a mix of oil and water in it, so I cleaned that too. Weird thing is, the tractor could sit for days and instantly fire up and run just fine without being choked. I'm surprised it runs as good as it does since I found all the sand in the float bowl.
Next up is an oil change and rear fluid change. It doesn't leak any oil from anywhere and the rear end doesn't leak, so I should be good on replacing with what I said above.
After all that, I'll order a decal kit, wheel bushings, all new tires and hopefully start breaking it down for paint. Oh, and I figure I'll replace the belts too, since they look like they have quite a bit of age to them.