1450 driveshaft and seal

[resto1450]

You guys are great! Once I get out of this office I will tear into it. Looks like mcmaster has something that should work. Anyone know the trunion spring part numbers. I suppose I should order those while I am paying for shipping. I should start a new thread to ask about those?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by resto1450

You guys are great! Once I get out of this office I will tear into it. Looks like mcmaster has something that should work. Anyone know the trunion spring part numbers. I suppose I should order those while I am paying for shipping. I should start a new thread to ask about those?

No, just keep on this thread.

I'd just get the pin from CCC. No reason to order parts from two different places. Do you not have a cub dealer within reasonable distance?

[R Bedell]

Part number(s) can be had here....... Cub Cadet Parts Lookup

[johncub7172]

I was going to suggest supporting the coupler if possible. Beating a coil pin out can often place unneeded stress on the hydro shaft. Removal of the hydro filter might help to access the coupler with one of those neat little skinny bottle jacks. If the pin is mangled, it is usually harder to drive out. I would not use anything bigger than a 3 pound drilling hammer. Don't get carried away with a "bfh" .

[resto1450]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

You need to pull the Drive Shaft out. Replace any worn drive line parts (couplers, adapters, flec discs, bushings, etc) plus the fan.

Once the drive shaft is out, remove the Hydro Unit input shaft Adapters (pound out the spirol pin). Once removed, pull out the defective input shaft seal. Take that seal to your local Auto Parts store for cross reference, and obtain same. Install new seal.

Once you have all the drive line parts as needed, re-assemble the drive and install back into tractor.

Check you Hydraulic Fluid level and add if necessary.

Wha-La.......you are good to go.

Well, the pin came out easy but the seal, that required a little more surgery. New seal went right on and in. Just going to make a new driveshaft, get a new fan and new rubber connecting disc?? Where do I get a new one of those. I didn't see one on patton acres. Also, should I turn a little concave radius on the end of the driveshaft that meets the coupler for the ball bearing to ride on? There is a wear mark on the current one. Last questions, what diameter is that ball supposed to be? It can almost slide right through the coupler. My guess is the coupler has wore not the bearing. I attached two pics

[resto1450]

Well, here is what I ended up with. Lovejoy and a $3 alum fan. See how long it lasts but sure moves the air and gets rid of that worn out rag joint. Shaft wasn't bent just bad rag joint. Modified fan from stock.. added a couple bushings and welded them together.

Thanks for the help on this one guys! (it was a lot prettier in there before the oil bath from shot seal)

[Yosemite Sam]

Was there a particular reason that you didn't replace the worn/bad parts with factory style parts?

[J-Mech]

Ummmm.... Yeah. What YSam said. ALL of the parts you needed are still available.

You, uh..... apparently don't know that you can't use a love-joy coupler when the shaft isn't supported. If you want to ride stradle of that particular bomb waiting to go off, then I guess it's your leg and not mine.

WOW.....

[sawdustdad]

I like the ingenuity you've displayed--got to give you props for that. But I agree with Jonathan, the original equipment was proven through years of use, and probably more rugged than that coupler. What happens when your deck hits a root and stops your tractor . Will that coupler handle the shock load?

As for straddling that driveshaft, I guess the tunnel cover would protect your essential parts...

[Steve149]

shrapnel is not a cool thing especially in that close proximity