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  #11  
Old 09-11-2014, 10:19 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Can if you want. I'd look at them at least. I get mine from Prime Line. Part number's:

Points: 7-01029
Cond: 7-01338
Cover Gasket: 7-02525

You can get Prime Line parts from O'Reilly's.
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:12 PM
steved steved is offline
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J=Mech, thanks for all your help. I finally have new points, condenser, digital tach, printed manuals and am ready to start on my 105. The way I see it is, first set the governor/ throttle cable. Second, install points and set using your static timing procedure. Third, adjust carburetor and set max and idle rpms. I hope I got that procedure right. I started today setting the throttle cable. Section 2 says to move throttle to open position. I take that as WOT. I then tighten the screw holding the cable. Governor spring is in the hole locations shown in the manual. Governor is in the correct position on the governor shaft per the manual. When I pull the throttle back to idle, the cable bends and the throttle plate pushes past the governor spring. See pic 3. I hope I've explained the situation correctly. What am I missing?
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File Type: jpg manual.jpg (50.6 KB, 142 views)
File Type: jpg WOT.jpg (26.2 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg idle .jpg (18.0 KB, 140 views)
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:23 PM
steved steved is offline
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I failed to mention, I pivoted the stop bracket out of the way so it was not interfering.
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2014, 06:40 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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I took a photographic image for you to compare the whole setup.
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File Type: jpg 20141020_183509.jpg (14.4 KB, 140 views)
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2014, 02:36 PM
steved steved is offline
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Thanks for the pictures. I guess I need to relocate the throttle cable in its clamp for the idle position first. Governor spring loose. Next move the the governor to WOT and tighten the screw on pivot plate screw for the cable wire. Does this sound right. And then follow the procedure I outlined above? Thanks for your help again.
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  #16  
Old 10-21-2014, 03:40 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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This is kind of hard to explain how to set but I'll try.....

The throttle should be attached in a way that lets the engine go from idle to WOT within it's range on the dash. Setting it usually takes a couple try's. The governor spring should be loose and not doing anything at idle. The position of the spring in the throttle rod (The short one that the throttle cable hooks to) doesn't matter as far as the governor is concerned. In other words, it can be in the bottom hole, or the top hole and the governor works the same. The position is so you can adjust how the throttle on the dash works. It's the lever principle. If you don't understand what I mean, then try it in both extreme locations and you will understand.

Yes, disconnect throttle and set the governor first. Then points and timing, then throttle cable which you will have to set it and carb setting with it running. I tune the carb first and set idle and WOT speeds last. It takes a while to do even after you've done it several times.
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  #17  
Old 10-22-2014, 03:04 PM
steved steved is offline
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J-Mech, thanks for the help. I'll be working on the 105 this afternoon. The points I got from O-Reilly had a small clear vial of black grease with them. Is it dielectric grease for the contact points or lubrication for the pivot point? Or do I discard? Sorry for all the newbie questions, I'm still learning.
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  #18  
Old 10-22-2014, 04:58 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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You don't need the grease on this application. It's for points that ride on a cam lobe like in a distributor. You would use it on the lobe the points ride on. I know it looks like a little pill, but please, refrain from eating it. Just discard.
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  #19  
Old 10-23-2014, 07:23 AM
steved steved is offline
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J-Mech, thanks for the help. We followed your procedure above and it worked great. With the throttle at each end of its physical limits the engine is running pretty close to 1200 - 3580 rpm. I figured a little under 3600 was pretty close. Next we moved to your static timing procedure and that where I've run into problems. We installed the new points. Looking at PTO end, rotated shaft CCW until we found the compression stroke, points open when passing the "S". Next we went to the engine manual, page 8.2, and followed the procedure to set the gap at .020" at TDC. Next, using the test light, rolled the shaft back to the "S" and little bit before. Turned the key on, rotate the shaft back to the "S" the light is on, contacts are touching. Continue rolling and the contacts break and the light goes out. Your instructions say when the points break open the test light will light. I've got the opposite. What am I doing wrong?
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  #20  
Old 10-23-2014, 07:53 AM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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how do you have your test light hooked up?
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