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  #11  
Old 08-21-2014, 09:44 PM
Merk Merk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Sorry...... I'm late.

That is a very, VERY, VERY bad idea ....... unless you want to buy a head. It's aluminum you know. You'll pull the threads right out of the head. Or crack it, or pull the whole thing apart, drop the engine, shatter the pan, bend up the tin-work, and then wonder why on earth you ever thought that was a good idea. Use the head bolts. Most engines have lift brackets on them. If not, a piece of angle iron with a hole drilled in both sides, using a head bolt in one hole, and the chain in the other is a much better idea.


BTW. A model "A" has a CAST IRON cylinder head......
And I still wouldn't pull even that engine like that.
X 2
I be afraid you pull the threads out of spark plug hole
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2014, 09:46 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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x3...........
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  #13  
Old 08-21-2014, 09:51 PM
rwairforce rwairforce is offline
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My friend a machinist type just made me one of those. Maybe it would be ok for the smaller singles like a 7 or 8hp... I always thought head bolts were the way to go too. I'm always the over cautious type when it comes to such things. I would probably use a 6k rated chain and my 1 ton floor jack to lift it out then slowly lower it to my work surface.
I've always done my best to avoid accidents instead of recovering from them.
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2014, 10:39 PM
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dvogtvpe dvogtvpe is offline
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think about it this way, torque on a plug is 18-22 ft lbs . an engine dress out is around 125 lbs. That means that one foot-pound of torque is a force of one pound applied one foot from the object's axis of rotation.
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2014, 10:48 PM
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a billet aluminum head I'd trust it. a 40 year old cast head, no way
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  #16  
Old 08-21-2014, 10:58 PM
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ford4150 ford4150 is offline
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Made mine by welding a large washer to the spark plug, after knocking the porcelain off. Not my original idea; it came right from the SeaDoo manual. Rotax heads are aluminum.
Didn't use it on the K321, just lifted it out/in.
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  #17  
Old 08-21-2014, 11:46 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by ford4150 View Post
Rotax heads are aluminum.
Didn't use it on the K321, just lifted it out/in.
Looks like you used 2 on that engine.

How much does it weigh?

It also has a much thicker head......
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  #18  
Old 08-21-2014, 11:50 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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I wouldn't lift it the way either, I can see wayyyyy to man bad things that could very well happen. Heck I get nervous lifting mine with the bracket on the head bolt! Lol I have a piece of heavy log chain wrapped around the 12" I-beam that runs the center of our house then a come-a long that I attach to that to raise and lower an engine or whatever heavy object you want.
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:22 AM
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darryljs darryljs is offline
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Just for laughs, I did some calculations (calculated by Engineers Edge and Matbase for shear strength) and it would take over 100,00 lbs to pull out the threads in 242 cast aluminum which is what air cooled heads are made of.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2014, 01:36 AM
Shaner Shaner is offline
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Originally Posted by darryljs View Post
Just for laughs, I did some calculations (calculated by Engineers Edge and Matbase for shear strength) and it would take over 100,00 lbs to pull out the threads in 242 cast aluminum which is what air cooled heads are made of.
That may be true...but it may not account for damaged threads or thin threads. I still would not lift a motor like that. I'd much rather lift them by hand or by the head bolts.

Lifting the KT or Magnum motors I use the tabs that are bolted on with the intake manifold bolts. If I can't winch them, I lift them with again...swift back jerking motion lol
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