Cub Cadet 1000 engine removal???

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by rebel715

My bad, that is what I did. I only unbolted the 4 bolts for the cradle, and it would not slide forward, so I unbolted the 4 bolts on the flywheel to enable me to get it out. At this point I have to save up to get about $200 for parts. I hate when you go to replace one thing and it just leads to "something else".

I know the feeling. I will be suprised if its only 200.00. I recently replaced my blown up clutch assembly/driveline. Replaced pretty much everything from the rear input shaft (including the rear input shaft) to the drive cup on the motor because of blown out cradle mounts. It was also suggested to me during that process to use the solid mounts. In my case I had already bought the iso mounts, so I was determined to use them. In the future however, if I ever have to do it again, I will go with the solids. I also did the cradle mod as suggested here, so I think its going to last a long time with the iso mounts. I opted to knock the center out of a used solid 3 pin driver instead of using the weaker 3 pin flex driver. I have not regreted that yet, it allowed me to still use the proper pilot ball bushing for the iso mounts, and is stronger than the flex style. What kind of shape is the pilot ball bushing, drive shaft, and rear bushing? TB

[rebel715]

Originally Posted by Texas Blues

I know the feeling. I will be suprised if its only 200.00. I recently replaced my blown up clutch assembly/driveline. Replaced pretty much everything from the rear input shaft (including the rear input shaft) to the drive cup on the motor because of blown out cradle mounts. It was also suggested to me during that process to use the solid mounts. In my case I had already bought the iso mounts, so I was determined to use them. In the future however, if I ever have to do it again, I will go with the solids. I also did the cradle mod as suggested here, so I think its going to last a long time with the iso mounts. I opted to knock the center out of a used solid 3 pin driver instead of using the weaker 3 pin flex driver. I have not regreted that yet, it allowed me to still use the proper pilot ball bushing for the iso mounts, and is stronger than the flex style. What kind of shape is the pilot ball bushing, drive shaft, and rear bushing? TB

Everything else is looking fine. I found this "pulling clutch" on ebay, and am thinking about it. What do you think??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331232752824...9#ht_63wt_1153

[mickb72]

Hello. check out his website, he has a complete stock clutch for about the same price. Mike

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by rebel715

Everything else is looking fine. I found this "pulling clutch" on ebay, and am thinking about it. What do you think??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331232752824...9#ht_63wt_1153

It sure looks pretty. I dont think it really will be necassary for just every day normal usage, meaning its not going to be a puller. Besides that, you may run into more modifications to make the pulling clutch work, where as the stock one will drop right in. Good luck, TB

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by rebel715

Everything else is looking fine. I found this "pulling clutch" on ebay, and am thinking about it. What do you think??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331232752824...9#ht_63wt_1153

You don't need that. Stock is the way to go. Don't make this harder than it is.

I still say, go with a regular 3pin driver and ditch the rubber mounts.

[sawdustdad]

I wholeheartedly agree with Jonathan on this--go back with a stock clutch. Pulling clutches are not intended for regular use. Not sure about the one you have cited, but some have aluminum pressure plates and they GRAB, so you can't feather the clutch like a stock one, and that's important in cutting around obstacles. Also, pulling clutches use heavier springs, which requires a heavier operating lever, which means a longer operating rod..etc, etc. More than you want to get into.

[rebel715]

Thanks for the information. I will probably continue with the "stock" set up. I will just have to wait until payday until I can order parts.

[rebel715]

Parts are in. I got a new pressure plate assembly, clutch plate, I will reuse the steel clutch plates, and a new flex rag joint. My next question is what is the easiest way to reassemble the tractor? I have been told to unbolt the engine from the mounting plate, and mount the plate into the tractor, then place the engine on top of the mount and slide it towards the rear of the tractor to engage the 3 pins on the clutch assembly. Is this the best way??
Thanks again!!!

[finsruskw]

Yup! You got it. Do the cradle mod also at this time as well as general cleanup, of the whole engine compt. If you are seeing a lot of oil leaks, it may also be a good time to pull the pan and have a look see around inside for good measure.

Check the PTO wiring and connectors as well as the main engine ground for bright and tight. You are this far into it Ya may as well do a little PM while you can still access a lot of the areas you can't reach when it's all together.\

You did remove the grill & hood I hope. Makes life a whole lot easier !!

I'm loading my 1000, a 1200, a 1450 and an O this after noon and headed to Belmond, IA bright & early in the AM.
Featuring IH this year and they have a 120 acre site!

[sawdustdad]

You've got the drill down. I'll suggest that a shallow socket set that can reach up between the axle and the axle channel will allow you to reach those two front engine pan bolts. Lift the front of the tractor up high, let the front axle pivot down on each side as you access those engine pan bolts. Be careful not to cross thread them! Also note that getting those 3 pins through the clutch disk is sometimes trying. You'll have to fiddle with it some to get it to go, but it will.

Here are some pictures of the cradle mod that everyone is suggesting. Welding the cross bar onto the two engine rails. Some more shots of my 1000. Note that mine has a creeper drive, so the flex disc attachment might be different than yours.