Ball joints - Page 2

cubs-n-bxrs · #11 07-11-2014, 11:18 AM

The TSC ball joints work fine. Just make sure to get the 3/8 24 thread size. I have always picked up the edge of the rubber seal and worked grease into the joint. Every little bit helps.

I just put a set on my 147.

Steve149 · #12 07-11-2014, 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

I mow twice a week and my grandfather uses his just about daily, im not saying you haven't had different results but from my experience i dont see a reason to pay twice as much for cc ends.

I guess if they fit and work all good and I can get two for the price of one at TSC. I was just concerned with the shorter stud there wouldn't be enough thread sticking up to get a nut on.

Steve149 · #13 07-11-2014, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs

The TSC ball joints work fine. Just make sure to get the 3/8 24 thread size. I have always picked up the edge of the rubber seal and worked grease into the joint. Every little bit helps.

I just put a set on my 147.

While Im there I will pickup a rattle can and touch up the rods before I put them back in as well.

Yosemite Sam · #14 07-11-2014, 12:41 PM

One of these days, I'm going to investigate this further.

Some of my Cubs have tie rod ends that are longer (where the rod screws in) if you try to replace them with new ends you can either only screw them onto the rods a few threads (maybe 3 or 4 threads) or they are too short altogether and you can't use the new ones at all without welding a nut onto the rod end to give them enough length.

Just from memory, I don't know if this is model specific or random. I keep wanting to think that it is the older ones that have the longer ends.

I do know that on one of my tractors someone else had welded nuts to at least one of the ends to make it longer and if my memory is correct they did all 4 of them that way.

If anyone knows the real poop on this, I would really appreciate finding out exactly what the deal is.

J-Mech · #15 07-11-2014, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

One of these days, I'm going to investigate this further.

Some of my Cubs have tie rod ends that are longer (where the rod screws in) if you try to replace them with new ends you can either only screw them onto the rods a few threads (maybe 3 or 4 threads) or they are too short altogether and you can't use the new ones at all without welding a nut onto the rod end to give them enough length.

Just from memory, I don't know if this is model specific or random. I keep wanting to think that it is the older ones that have the longer ends.

I do know that on one of my tractors someone else had welded nuts to at least one of the ends to make it longer and if my memory is correct they did all 4 of them that way.

If anyone knows the real poop on this, I would really appreciate finding out exactly what the deal is.

If they are original, I would say CC or IH, (whichever the case may be) used different manufacturers for the tie rods. Perhaps one company couldn't fill an order, or the particular style ran out and a longer rod still fit and functioned. Or perhaps they have been replaced at some point. There are a hundred different styles and sizes of ball joints.

Steve149 · #16 07-11-2014, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

If they are original, I would say CC or IH, (whichever the case may be) used different manufacturers for the tie rods. Perhaps one company couldn't fill an order, or the particular style ran out and a longer rod still fit and functioned. Or perhaps they have been replaced at some point. There are a hundred different styles and sizes of ball joints.

I know this from investigating this today...the part .0156 is identical in size to the .3000 end, the only difference is the .3000 has a hole for a cotter pin. On the other side of the coin, the .3018 the stud end is 5/8" in length as opposed to 7/8" on the other two. This was my original concern as to would there be enough thread to get a nut on given the thickness of the steering knuckle. Yeah it's only a 1/4" less, and if memory serves me I do believe that there was more than enough thread above the castle nut on the original end.

olds45512 · #17 07-11-2014, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve149

I know this from investigating this today...the part .0156 is identical in size to the .3000 end, the only difference is the .3000 has a hole for a cotter pin. On the other side of the coin, the .3018 the stud end is 5/8" in length as opposed to 7/8" on the other two. This was my original concern as to would there be enough thread to get a nut on given the thickness of the steering knuckle. Yeah it's only a 1/4" less, and if memory serves me I do believe that there was more than enough thread above the castle nut on the original end.

Plenty of room, i think i have an extra 1/8 inch of thread on mine with a flat washer and lock nut

Steve149 · #18 07-11-2014, 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Plenty of room, i think i have an extra 1/8 inch of thread on mine with a flat washer and lock nut

Sounds good TSC here I come woo hoo

mjsoldcub · #19 07-11-2014, 04:03 PM

Just my 2 cents, but i got solid stainless ones, That are otherwise identical to the originals for like 6-7$ a piece from mcmaster....

Steve149 · #20 07-11-2014, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mjsoldcub

Just my 2 cents, but i got solid stainless ones, That are otherwise identical to the originals for like 6-7$ a piece from mcmaster....

That would be nice especially if they are good grade Stainless no rust no worries. But I need to mow therefore I have to get the steering gear pointing in the right direction before mother scalps me