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  #11  
Old 07-10-2014, 12:25 PM
OldCubby OldCubby is offline
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Originally Posted by dbuck View Post
OldCubby, that 1250 looks to be in pretty decent shape from sitting outside. Was it covered?
Well, yes and no. He has some other crap he had packed on top and around it. It also kind of sat under some tree limbs. But when I got it, it was covered in dirt. I took a hose and towel and wiped it all down before I took the pic you see above.

I take the block into get machined tomorrow night after work. I'm pretty excited about it
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Cub Cadet 1250 w/ the K301aqs engine. Restored to 1978

Columbia City, Indiana
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  #12  
Old 07-10-2014, 01:19 PM
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You can do a static test. If it passes, clean off the rust with some sand paper or emory. Here's the link. Do other test after it's running.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=368
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  #13  
Old 07-10-2014, 03:06 PM
OldCubby OldCubby is offline
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You can do a static test. If it passes, clean off the rust with some sand paper or emory. Here's the link. Do other test after it's running.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=368
So, according to that test...if I ohm the leads and get between .064 - .069ohms then its still good? anything higher would mean its bad...

if it ohms out good, could I just clean the rust off the tops of the stator and be good to go....per say.
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Cub Cadet 1250 w/ the K301aqs engine. Restored to 1978

Columbia City, Indiana
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  #14  
Old 07-10-2014, 06:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by OldCubby View Post
So, according to that test...if I ohm the leads and get between .064 - .069ohms then its still good? anything higher would mean its bad...

if it ohms out good, could I just clean the rust off the tops of the stator and be good to go....per say.
Pretty much.....
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  #15  
Old 07-10-2014, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCubby View Post
So, according to that test...if I ohm the leads and get between .064 - .069ohms then its still good? anything higher would mean its bad...

if it ohms out good, could I just clean the rust off the tops of the stator and be good to go....per say.

Also make sure the stator isn't shorted to ground before you put it back together.

I never liked that Ohm test for the Stator. Such a small number and small range - better have a good meter and it better be well calibrated.

Nice find! goodluck
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  #16  
Old 07-10-2014, 07:26 PM
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Cubby. By looking at the pictures it looks like the bore is waaaay to big to salvage unless it's an optical illusion and is there a big crack about 9 o'clock of the block? Looks bad to me?
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  #17  
Old 07-10-2014, 11:58 PM
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Welcome to OCC Great story of the background of your tractor.
A dirty stator with a little rust is common after all those years. It'll clean up fine. I took mine on a bench grinder with a wire brush and carefully cleaned the ends then sprayed electric motor cleaner throughout.
Good as new
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  #18  
Old 07-11-2014, 12:15 PM
OldCubby OldCubby is offline
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Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
Cubby. By looking at the pictures it looks like the bore is waaaay to big to salvage unless it's an optical illusion and is there a big crack about 9 o'clock of the block? Looks bad to me?
It's an optical illusion and a later of dirt that makes it look like a huge crack. None the less, I'll find out about the block here in a few hours when I drop it off for cleaning up and boring.
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Cub Cadet 1250 w/ the K301aqs engine. Restored to 1978

Columbia City, Indiana
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  #19  
Old 07-11-2014, 12:22 PM
OldCubby OldCubby is offline
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Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
Welcome to OCC Great story of the background of your tractor.
A dirty stator with a little rust is common after all those years. It'll clean up fine. I took mine on a bench grinder with a wire brush and carefully cleaned the ends then sprayed electric motor cleaner throughout.
Good as new
I'm not sure I want to do that. I don't want to have to take it apart again if it is toast. Or for $75 I throw a new one in and feel better at the end of the day.
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Cub Cadet 1250 w/ the K301aqs engine. Restored to 1978

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  #20  
Old 07-12-2014, 02:56 PM
OldCubby OldCubby is offline
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Welp, took the engine in last night to get it all checked out and rebored, valves grounded down, valve sets relapped and cleaned. I can't wait to see how it looks when I get it back. Sorry, no new pics as of right now. But next week I'll be spending the time taking apart the frame.......which leads me to my next question....those of you who have done a frame up restoration or even just a new paint job. What are you doing for surface prep and just how much work should I be doing? My goal is to have it look it did when my dad brought it home. Are you taking it down all the way to bare metal? or just cleaning the current paint and sanding it down?

Thanks, and I'll post pics of the machine work when I get it back.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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