Internal or external brakes

[yeeter]

I didnt swap out rear ends. But did mess with it a bit:

Added gas. Gas gauge was missing the parts except for two very rusty wires going down. Not a good sign. Gas wouldnt flow. Took off the tank and blew backwards through it a bit and rinsed it out with some fresh gas a few times. Now it flows, although not 'fast', a steady trickle.

Compression test. (why not). Says 80psi. I dont know if thats a lot or not for this engine, but sounds low to me.

Pulled the plug. Hooked up some jumpers and it turns over! Yay! (I hate chasing all the electrical connections, so was happy it would turn over with the key).

No spark.... inspect the points. A stalagmite (or is it a stalagtite?). Some fine sandpaper back and forth a few times and it now sparks. An interesting thing though, when I turn off the key I get a spark. Just the act of turning it off triggers a spark. No clue.

In goes the plug... some ether. Bam!. Couple more attempts without the ether and just letting the chock full on and next thing you know a cloud of smoke and its running.

Smokes like crazy. But runs. Turn it off... restart... no problem.

So now a running tractor, lets see if it moves. Goes in forward. Doesnt go at all in reverse. A problem for another day. (also when I was pulling it back to the barn after washing I noticed it would not tow backwards at all. The wheels lock up. Tow forward, no problem. ??

Put some of the tins back on (was doing another project so painted these ones at the same time.

"It looks better than it is...."

Drive shaft is bent and hitting the steering column. Trunion is worn. Wont go in reverse. No side panels. I havent looked inside the rear end, but not optimistic. Low compression and smokes like crazy. ISO mounts are shot. As in, not even there on the back.

So some work to do. Its not all that bad, some more puttering should get it back in order.

[dbuck]

Originally Posted by mjsoldcub

You have to make the "turning brake" mechanism just pull on the individual brake rods....cant pull on the cast brake lever, or disconnect the one linkage that operates the neutral return.....thats why i personally like the idea of heel controlled steering brakes....also would be good in a tractor with an open rearend, when getting stuck, to transfer traction....

Thank you for your reply. I like that idea, which I could have used the transfer traction part more than once this winter. Am I correct in assuming that when adding another pedal, you have dual pedals on the current left side or add another pedal to the right side?

[Sam Mac]

I retained the factory setup on the left but added a set of peddles from a Super on the right. The external and internal brakes are not connected. The internal still works with the clutch but the externals only work the disk brakes. I should mention that this tractor does not have a rock shaft for a mower. Not sure if this setup would fit with one. I only use it to plow the garden.

[olds45512]

Yeeter, compression tests don't work on cubs real well, the engine have an Auto compression release to help it turn over faster while starting. However even with that I would say if you getting 80 on the guage then it probably has over 100 while running

[yeeter]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Yeeter, compression tests don't work on cubs real well, the engine have an Auto compression release to help it turn over faster while starting. However even with that I would say if you getting 80 on the guage then it probably has over 100 while running

Thank you. Hmmm, is this true on the twins (the 782's) as well? If so then perhaps there is no point in compression test on these either....?

[yeeter]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

I retained the factory setup on the left but added a set of peddles from a Super on the right. The external and internal brakes are not connected. The internal still works with the clutch but the externals only work the disk brakes. I should mention that this tractor does not have a rock shaft for a mower. Not sure if this setup would fit with one. I only use it to plow the garden.

I have a similar setup going onto an 1811. From the bit I read here, its my understanding that this does not work with a mower lift mechanism.

Im setting it up for snow plowing and know it will be useful when losing traction on one side, so no need for a mower. And although its not installed yet, am hoping to make it 'bolt on' such that if someday I want to go back to a mower for some reason, it can be unbolted.

[Nitro]

Sam and Yeeter, I was thinking about doing the same thing to my 1450, it has internals and I have externals hanging on the wall. I was toying with the idea of using cables, it's already pretty crowded inside that frame. I don't know if it would be feasible or not, it's all brain work at this point. I'd have to find some pedals and see how I could make everything work, I wouldn't want to lose the ability to mow. If the green tractors can do it the yellow ones can too.

[Maxwelhse]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Yeeter, compression tests don't work on cubs real well, the engine have an Auto compression release to help it turn over faster while starting. However even with that I would say if you getting 80 on the guage then it probably has over 100 while running

I have heard that you have to turn the engine over backward, by hand, to get an accurate compression reading. Any truth in that?

[Mike McKown]

It has been a long time since I used my Cubs that had internal brakes and the WF's that have the disc brakes. From what I remember:

The narrow frames that had the internal brakes would stop you like "right now". Never a problem except.................. I recall going down a steep hill one day with a trailer behind me, in gear. The grass was wet and the wheels started sliding. Next thing you know, one wheel is turning forward and one turning backwards due to differential action. So, I applied the foot brake and the wheels continued in different rotational directions. I couldn't stop the tractor until the ground leveled out.

The wide frames that had disc brakes? I never owned one where the brakes would hold much of anything, anywhere. Maybe my pads were too worn but I don't think so. They were adjusted to compensate for the wear.

I used to think what would happen if I sheared a driveshaft pin while I was on a steep grade going either up or down as the brakes on the old tractors would not hold.

ALL the Cyclops tractors have good disc brakes that hold really well. No need to worry about a driveshaft pin breaking either.

[IH Cub Cadet]

Originally Posted by Mike McKown

The narrow frames that had the internal brakes would stop you like "right now". Never a problem except.................. I recall going down a steep hill one day with a trailer behind me, in gear. The grass was wet and the wheels started sliding. Next thing you know, one wheel is turning forward and one turning backwards due to differential action. So, I applied the foot brake and the wheels continued in different rotational directions. I couldn't stop the tractor until the ground leveled out.

This is the reason I would prefer external brakes on a QL.

While this next comment is just my preference and absolutely no dig on the later QL's or 82 series tractors, I kind of associate IH with heavy cast iron. Just seems to me part of the legacy. IMHO, the early QL tractors with the cast iron axle housings (and external brakes) and cast iron lower front grill vs aluminum are the last of the all cast iron IH Cub Cadets.

In no way am I saying (want to be careful and not offend) that the later QL's and 82 series were lesser tractors, just personal preference on my part and an observation/opinion I thought I'd share.

That tractor should clean-up nicely too! Nice find!