repower

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by ol'George

FWIW,
Those cyl's/pistons show up on evil pay @ times if you are not in a hurry. Possibly that would save a bore & pistons.

there is a set of jugs on there now, but with everything thorn down not sure if he even knows what pistons went in wich jug, but new kohler pistons and rings are more than i thought they would be, so far im at 80 for bore n hone around 200 new pistons n rings and about 80 bucks for new gasket set, but whats up with sten pistons half the price of kohler?

Go cheap with Stens. Remember you have no idea of the rod ends and crank if you are only doing the jugs and increase in compression will put more stress on already worn rods soooooo...why spend the big bucks? Stens pistons will be fine and if you get another 300 hours out of it...well...that's good IMO.

Scott

BTW I have a M18 sitting here with pitted cylinders because the PO let it set outside and water got in, lose plugs possibly. I'll be doing the same as you eventually and I'll go with the Stens. Also remember that when a rod goes it takes a jug with it...just wouldn't put a lot into it if you are not going all the way.


Scott

Ya know, you could just hone and replace the rings and clean up the valves, new head gaskets and get out of it for around $50. I know you said one bore has a scratch in it but you'll likely get back to 95lbs+++ and still get a couple of years use out of it. Just a thought.

Scott

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by rwire125

there is a set of jugs on there now, but with everything thorn down not sure if he even knows what pistons went in wich jug, but new kohler pistons and rings are more than i thought they would be, so far im at 80 for bore n hone around 200 new pistons n rings and about 80 bucks for new gasket set, but whats up with sten pistons half the price of kohler?

You can swap pistons between the jugs and with new rings there should not be a problem.
But you do need to keep the jugs on the correct side as they do not interchange on the later engines.

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by murphycc

Ya know, you could just hone and replace the rings and clean up the valves, new head gaskets and get out of it for around $50. I know you said one bore has a scratch in it but you'll likely get back to 95lbs+++ and still get a couple of years use out of it. Just a thought.

Scott

your probly right, ive not built alot of engines and mostly motorcycles so not really sure what i can get away with hear, but know im not wanting to split the case and go after the crank n rods then heck might aswhell just get a new engine, but the scratches in 1 jug are not that bad ive seen worse but still enough to catch a fingernail on and about 4 of them approx 1/4 apart,so are you thinking if i was to just hone and then go with org size rings or .003 over? not sure how much you would increse bore size buy just honeing. and do you have a sorce for sten? you have brought up varry good points and have given me much to think about, and thank you for your input, think im going to pull the scratched jug and take it to the bore shop and get there opion on it allso and really needed to know if i do decide to bore what oversize set to get was thinking a .020 just to be sure everthing would clean up good thanks agine Scott

[ol'George]

FWIW:
Lets see if we can help with some terms:
When re-ringing to standard size rings, cylinders are deglazed, to allow the new rings to seat properly.
Also if there is a large ridge @ the top of the cyl. it needs to be removed, as if left it can cause a new top ring to break.

You really don't want to hone a cyl, as that usually implies going oversize.
Most shops will use a Hone to achieve .010 oversize or more.
They will speak of boring/honing to oversize to achieve the proper cross hatch pattern, but most just use a hone and not go to the trouble of boring first, then honing.

Can you post a good pix of the Scratches in the Cyl. you are concerned with?
Possibly we can tell if it can be left alone with just deglazing or needs to be addressed, by going oversize.
Small scratches that don't go the full length of the ring travel most times can be left alone with no appreciable problems later.

[rwire125]

George
I just pulled the cyclinder in question, ill bring it to work tonight a get it cleaned up (solvent tank) then ill try tomorrow and see if i can get a good picture of it, thanks George i didnt know just hone would take a bore that far over

[ol'George]

If you stop to think of it,
.010 oversize in reality is .005 on a side.
You usually leave after boring, about .002-.003 for honing.
If a bore is worn a little or just minor scoring, it is just easier to forget about the boring,and associated set up time, and just hone it to finished size.

Now if the bore is egg shaped or tapered excessivly, or a person wants to go .060 oversize,then it must be bored to true it up and or remove the larger amount of material.
Remember a human hair is maybe .002 to put it all in prespective.

[Matt G.]

You can save a little money by going with an aftermarket gasket set, too. I think the last one I bought was $35 or so, and the seals it came with were identical to the ones I was getting in Kohler bags from my CC dealer. It does not appear that there are aftermarket oversize pistons for the M18 and M20. You can, however, get aftermarket ring sets fairly cheap. There are no 3 thou over rings...the 3 thou over pistons use the standard rings.

I have an M18 all in pieces back home...I bought a vertical shaft MV16 very cheap (same jugs, rods, and pistons as M18) and I'll be using them with new standard rings. The crank I'm using was freshly turned before the engine tossed a rod, and it's in good shape. I bought new aftermarket rods for it. Someday, I'll find the time to put it all back together....