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#11
08-04-2014, 12:40 PM
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I use a 3 pound small sledge. That way you don't have to swing so hard. Also a little lubricant will assist and of course some heat if it's really stubborn.
__________________
Randy Cubs: 71, 72, 127, 149, 1440, 2186 and 1864 John Deere 110 round fender John Deere 140 H3 Sears: GTV16 
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#12
08-04-2014, 02:36 PM
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THIS is what is involved replacing front axle bushings on a Cub.
These are in a basket case 126 that I'm sure was headed for the scrap heap. Not for the faint of heart! Cutting and welding req'd. They are "spun welded" in place and must be removed in pieces. they WILL NOT press out. New ones are available from Cub BUT they are pricy. The new pin should be in place in the bushings when they are welded back in to insure proper alignment. Trust me....I am speaking from experience here, your results may vary.
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#13
08-08-2014, 12:14 AM
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I got the axle swapped out today - finally. The nail idea was the right approach, but that coiled spring pin was stuck too well for a nail. It would bend or I would just beat the head of the nail to a pulp.
As I mentioned earlier, A punch got it started moving, but I eventually reached the limit of the punch; since it had a taper and eventually would go no further in the hole. The smaller punch was no match for the force required and I damaged it. So I had to come up with something. So I kept filling the hole with tiny sections of nail so I could keep using the punch. After 20 or so whacks, it would move couple millimeters again and I would add another section of nail. Did that about 6-7 times. Once I had the coiled spring pin out, a regular nail was hard enough to drive the sections of nail now in the hole. I actually was afraid this idea would just take me from the frying pan into the fire but the nail sections drove out easily. Wow - it was in there really good. Anyways, the pin and bushings are in excellent shape so they can be re-used. That is a big blessing. Thanks for the help! Figured you might want to know the outcome.
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#14
08-08-2014, 02:17 AM
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Glad you get it done! With a lot of hard work since you don't use the specific tool for the task!
I buy a set of Starrett drive pin punch 20 years ago and never look back, they are a bit more pricy today ($45) but you can count on them to get the job done! I never have to use heat or penetrant lube to help remove a pin but if this ever happen I try the home brew mix of 50% ATF/50% Acetone first over any commercial brand. Time is a issue for me so I avoid the hard way by getting the right tool for the job if possible without punching a giant hole in my wallet of course! Starrett link for the same set I own:http://www.starrett.com/metrology/pr...nd-Sets/S248PC
__________________
Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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#15
08-08-2014, 08:18 AM
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I second using the correct tools, makes life a whole lot easier. And the 50/50 ATF and acetone works wonders. It has saved me many times.
Chris
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#17
08-08-2014, 01:54 PM
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Craftsman punches are import from China! My old set of Starrett is US made, they operated manufacturing facilities in Brazil and Scotland too for over fifty four years! Starrett open a manufacturing facilities in China in 1997. Who knows maybe the Craftsman punches are produced at the same facilities. If the price and warranty is right I probably pick the Craftsman too today, but don't even try to borrowed my Starrett set! No way Jose!
__________________
Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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#18
08-08-2014, 02:14 PM
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My punch set is craftsman and they seem to hold up good, I've only even broke one and they warrantied it no problem.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#20
08-08-2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
 Quote:
 The OP may have save a lot of work buying a set like yours.
__________________
Gilles. 1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade 1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck 1976 1650/QA42A blower/44A deck/standby 1976 1450TS/Sleeve hitch/44A deck/in storage 1963 100 (red)/in storage 2010 Kubota 2380-2/42" infinity deck (engine swap)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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