started on my 1650 teardown

[MikeC]

Hey Thenrie and Dieseldog558, reading the posts I thought you guys were PMing about a specific seat for sale someplace. But then Thenrie, you said you looked at the site and would probably order from them. Can you guys give us the site address. Don't know if they have everything but I am in the market for a seat for an original and a 100.
Thanks, MikeC

[thenrie]

The company was carter & gruenewald. Google them and you'll find it. You can see the seat we were talking about on the "winter project 1200" thread. Looks like a good seat for my 1650 to me, but I don't recall seeing the old metal seats.

Tony

Originally Posted by thenrie

Went with the Cub Cadet rattle cans from CC Specialties P/N 759-3258. Pretty precious stuff. A lot cheaper to go with the quarts, but I only have the one Cub right now, and didn't want to have to store it. Besides, rattle cans are spray and toss. No reducers, no mixing, no clean up, etc.

My next parts order will include a seat. I already took a look at the site you mentioned. Great price. That's probably what I'll do. I can't hardly buy a seat cover for that price, and then it would be going over an old pan that I'd have to de-rust and paint.

What I'm going to try to do this weekend is finish the disassembly and clean the frame up. I will have to do the motor mount modification and also repair the front axle mount. The front socket for the pivot pin was torn out of the frame by the PO. I guess he wasn't paying attention and the pin had slipped forward, allowing the axle to rotate, ripping the front socket right out of the frame crossmember. Probably won't get all that done this weekend, but I'll get a start on it. What fun.:biggrin2.gif:

I'll take pics and see if I can get my computer to be nice and talk to my camera.

Just added some pics to the post.

Wish my shop was more presentable. Just haven't had time yet to build the workbenches and storage cabinets yet. Everything is still on the floor.

I'm sure there is some level of intimidation to using automotive grade acrylics but once you get past that...it's a breeze.
Got the fender done today.





And you won't regret the finished product.

Scott

[thenrie]

I have the gear (compressor, spraygun, etc.) I just didn't want to hassle with the mixing and cleanup right now. It's been so long since I used them that I would have to practically re-learn how to mix the paint, set up the gun, etc. Besides, my shop is a mess and I still have stuff in boxes, on the floor, tools not yet found, etc. I bought the house last summer and have not had a chance yet to get my shop really set up. For right now it will just be quicker and easier with the rattle-cans. I'll be better set up for my next project Cub.

[thenrie]

Forgot to take my camera, but last night I got the itch, so I went to the workshop and made a patch for my front crossmember, drilled it with a 3/4" bit, then welded my new pivot pin socket to it. I should have practiced a bit with my welder first. It's been too long since I welded last and this was my first try with flux core. Made a pretty good bugger weld. A little grinding...good as new.

I cut out the damaged area on the crossmember, using my patch as a pattern, filed to fit snugly, then tacked the patch in place. I trial fitted the axle and all looks good. Then I called it good and quit for the evening. I'll practice a bit more with the welder before I bugger up the crossmember. Turns out I had my welder settings wrong. Shoulda reviewed the manual BEFORE I tried to weld.

I'll get some pics this weekend.

Somebody had to work hard to rip/tear that axle out of the cross member huh?

Scott

[thenrie]

Well, not really. Once I looked at it, I realized that once the rolled pin that retains the pivot pin falls out, you don't have anything to keep the pivot pin from eventually working its way forward or aft, until it slips out of the socket. In this case, it apparently worked its way forward and slipped out of the socket. Then, over time (apparently the owner never noticed the problem) the front axle rotated, and probably started cracking the front of the crossmember until it finally ripped all the way out, since the front socket was the only thing holding the axle in place. The tractor had been refurbed at some point in its life, but I'm betting the owner who left it to me was using it for a lawn mower and really didn't know much about machinery and maintenance.

The good part in this was that when I found the poor thing sitting in the woods (it was on the lot at a house I bought) I figured the engine was bad. When I found the front axle was bent back under the frame, I realized the tractor was parked not because of a bad engine or trans, but because of the front axle problem. Turned out the engine was fine. Haven't yet tried the trans.

Here are some pics of my repair. A little more grinding to clean up my "bugger welds" and take the excess off the repair patch and she'll be ready for paint.

[Lmercer]

Looking awesome. I tore mine down last night to get ready for paint.

murphycc: What brand and number of paint did you use. That looks incredible!

[thenrie]

Well, six months later, and I finally got the frame primered. I bought a Harbor Freight 40# pressure media blaster to strip the paint and rust. Works like a charm, but goes through the media faster than I expected. I used 70 grit aluminum oxide and it does a great job removing paint and rust. Expensive, though. You will also see the repaired frame and the modified engine mount. I'm told my welds won't hold water, but they'll do for my Cub.

Just a couple pics. Still have a long way to go. Only lack a good fender pan and a seat to have all the parts together though. Hoping to get everything painted before it gets too cold again. Maybe I'll get it all put together this winter.

[Lmercer]

Looking good!! I bought the same media blaster to do mine. I started laying down the yellow today. i'm hoping to have mine all painted by next weekend.