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  #11  
Old 04-06-2014, 09:04 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken6x6 View Post
its an antifreeze additive that suppose to lower the coolant temp by a few degrees

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/re...FSqXOgod2FIAPA
I've used this in my race cars and I have it in my 2182, the 1782 will be getting some also. Great stuff.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2014, 09:28 AM
ccpullin ccpullin is offline
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Charles,

You are not running warm enough! You are not having an overheating problem rather running too cool as the thermostats are opening too soon or are not sealing. Depending on what thermostat is installed in the engine it should be running 170 to 190 degrease when up to operating temperature. Start the engine up cold and as it warms up place your hand around the upper radiator hose (be carefull of the fan). You should NOT feel any heat until the engine gets up to full operating temperature (rated temperature of the thermostat, varies around 170 to 190 degrease) then the thermostat should open and start flowing coolant to the radiator. If you feel the upper radiator hose warming up as the engine is warming up the thermostat is not sealing and need replaced. Products like water wetter are designed to make the engine run cooler. Calcium and rust build up will cause the engine to run hotter as the heat from the engine can not transfer to the coolant, or the coolant can not transfer heat through the radiator tubes for the air passing across it to reduce the temperature. Again, you are not running hot enough or your gauges are not showing accurate. If you were having an overheating issue yes, water wetter, antifreeze, and radiator cap pressure all help. Overheating can be caused by thermostats, belt condition, grass in the radiator fins, water pump impeller, and calcium/rust build up could be issues. Another factor between a 1572 and a 1772 is a larger engine on the 1772 building more heat with the same cooling capacity (radiator size) between the models. Again, you are not running warm enough, if you get it up to recommended temperature it will run better, cleaner and have more power!
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2014, 01:08 PM
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drcjv drcjv is offline
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The only thing I can think of doing is change the thermostats but it seems unlikely that both are not working. The 1772 is the one that runs cooler. The service manager at the local dealership told me that there is noway that in 50 degree weather the tractors will get up to temp. This did not sound right to me but these things are supposed to run hot. I don't see what could make the run cooler.
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1572 3pnt, rear PTO, 50" deck
1772 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power angle plow
1872 3pnt, 44" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power Angle Plow
2072 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow
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  #14  
Old 04-06-2014, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drcjv View Post
The only thing I can think of doing is change the thermostats but it seems unlikely that both are not working. The 1772 is the one that runs cooler. The service manager at the local dealership told me that there is noway that in 50 degree weather the tractors will get up to temp. This did not sound right to me but these things are supposed to run hot. I don't see what could make the run cooler.
The service manager is obviously not educated in what a thermostat does.
My guess is both of your thermostats are stuck in the open position.
If there are any installed.
Which is a good thing.
Until the sludge starts to build up in the oil due to the moisture not being evaporated because the engine is not allowed to get up to proper operating temp.
Which on virtually any water cooled engine is just under 210 by a few degrees.
Efficient use of fuel also requires the near boiling point temp.
With a proper temp. and working thermostat, it will throttle the coolant flow to the radiator so that the engine either retains the desired heat or is allowed to radiate the heat via the rad.
Even when it is 40 below zero.
Internal engines might not generate power efficiently but they are very good at converting fuel into heat.

I would say your rad and all else in the cooling system is up to par and it is simply an open stat.
If there is one installed at all.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2014, 05:43 PM
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Both tractors have thermostats and I took the one out of the 1772 and it was closed when I put it in hot water it opened. Then closed when cooled again. So I am stumped unless I am not taking the temp correctly as I said I used a laser thermometer I put it all around engine and thermo housing highest I got on 1572 was 150 and 130 on 1772. I also put thermometer in radiators and got similar results. How and where do I get a real reading?
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1572 3pnt, rear PTO, 50" deck
1772 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power angle plow
1872 3pnt, 44" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power Angle Plow
2072 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow
2072 50" deck
Cub Cadet Tank 50 Zero Turn
Cub Cadet 33" Commercial Walk Behind
1953 Ih Cub with just about every implement
New Holland TC33D with Loader and Backhoe
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  #16  
Old 04-06-2014, 08:26 PM
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Let them run with the radiator caps off till you see the fluid start moving indicating the thermostats are open then let them run another 10 minutes to check temp. If they are still low try a new thermostat.
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  #17  
Old 04-07-2014, 01:13 AM
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You can't check internal water temp with an infrared temp gun. If you are just getting readings with that, it is probably at least 20° different than the water inside the system. You really need to calm down, if you are checking them just sitting there running, they aren't going to get anywhere near 200° unless you load them. I.E. go mow, blow snow, or pull those plows. I mean WORK it. A diesel will not get hot until under load. Diesel cylinder and exhaust temps are much lower than a gas engine. Plus it's what like maybe 50° outside? From what you describe I think they are both working just fine. I wouldn't worry until it's 90° and they won't get up to 200°. Leave them alone, they're fine. (I work on diesels all the time.) If they were mine, and the temp gauge on the dash is just one that says C-H, I'd replace it with one with actual numbers. Then you know what the temp is.
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  #18  
Old 04-07-2014, 06:27 AM
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This is kinda what I thought all along. I did replace the gauge on the 1772 with one with #s That is what got me thinking about this because it only goes up to 130. Neither tractor has done any work and it has been 50 or less out. I will see what happens this weakend when they are pulling the plows.

Thanks to all for the help
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Charles________________________
1572 3pnt, rear PTO, 50" deck
1772 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power angle plow
1872 3pnt, 44" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power Angle Plow
2072 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow
2072 50" deck
Cub Cadet Tank 50 Zero Turn
Cub Cadet 33" Commercial Walk Behind
1953 Ih Cub with just about every implement
New Holland TC33D with Loader and Backhoe
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by drcjv View Post
This is kinda what I thought all along. I did replace the gauge on the 1772 with one with #s That is what got me thinking about this because it only goes up to 130. Neither tractor has done any work and it has been 50 or less out. I will see what happens this weakend when they are pulling the plows.

Thanks to all for the help
Where did you put the sensor for the gauge? That may be the reason for the low reading also.
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  #20  
Old 04-07-2014, 10:22 AM
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The new sensor went right where the original sensor was.
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1572 3pnt, rear PTO, 50" deck
1772 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power angle plow
1872 3pnt, 44" deck, Brinly Plow, 54" Power Angle Plow
2072 3pnt 50" deck, Brinly Plow
2072 50" deck
Cub Cadet Tank 50 Zero Turn
Cub Cadet 33" Commercial Walk Behind
1953 Ih Cub with just about every implement
New Holland TC33D with Loader and Backhoe
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