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  #11  
Old 04-01-2014, 11:15 PM
IH Cub Cadet IH Cub Cadet is offline
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That was a nasty looking oil filter you had to tear off. I had to do that to a NEW car's filter on the first oil change - yikes!!!!

I too believe the side panels are more for sound attenuation, but may help with short cycling of hot air off the front, don't know. One thing I've thought about doing with my hood and side panels on my 1650 is applying some sound absorbing/deadening material to them just for kicks and see how that effects the noise. My 1650 w/14 hp engine is the quietest old iron tractor I've owned.

Good luck!
Bill
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2014, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leeave96 View Post
That was a nasty looking oil filter you had to tear off. I had to do that to a NEW car's filter on the first oil change - yikes!!!!

I too believe the side panels are more for sound attenuation, but may help with short cycling of hot air off the front, don't know. One thing I've thought about doing with my hood and side panels on my 1650 is applying some sound absorbing/deadening material to them just for kicks and see how that effects the noise. My 1650 w/14 hp engine is the quietest old iron tractor I've owned.

Good luck!
Bill
If you do that, be sure to post back/let us know how that goes! In all honesty, I don't think it'd make a huge difference but I think it would be something worth trying. Maybe if you did the side panels AND hood it'd make a noticeable difference. Buuuttt then the more paranoid out there would be concerned with the additional heat you'd be trapping in. I think it'd be negligible but you can't win 'em all

As far as the 14hp being the quietest old iron, mine needs the muffler box quieted down and the hood to have it's "silencer strip" put on to be a contender for that. Right now, that hood and especially muffler box makes more noise by themselves than any other tractor I've had. Guess you could say my Quietline has yet to prove the Quiet part of the name yet
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2014, 11:24 PM
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Figured I'd post these since I finally tracked them down. When I changed the oil pan from the aluminum pan to the cast iron one I got from an OCC member, these are a couple pics I snapped. What do you guys thing? She runs strong with no smoke thus far.



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  #14  
Old 04-02-2014, 08:51 AM
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Great job on the updates. Agree the 1450 is a great tractor. My 1450 is pretty quiet, too. My 1650 makes a lot more noise.
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  #15  
Old 04-02-2014, 09:06 PM
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Got the time and parts today to put the new bushings in the carb on the 1450. Was actually pretty durn easy. Removed the carb, pulled the throttle shaft, "pounded" in the new bushings with a 1/4 deep well socket, re-installed throttle shaft, violla! Done.

After I got it re-installed, it would still run a bit rough at idle. I decided to check the points again to make 100% sure they were set right. After blasting a can of carb cleaner and a wire brush on the flywheel, I finally found "S" for spark I re-set the points (waaayyy easier with the Pointsaver installed). Fired it back up and I'm on the right track. Adjusted the low idle and high fuel screws and she runs much better. Took the tiller out for a test and I'm happy so far. I need to get a tach to set the right idle but I think I'm pretty close.

Couple questions, though;

Does anyone know if O'reilly's, Autozone, Napa, Advance, etc rents out a tach that would work for me?

Why is it that no matter what I do, it smells like my idle ALWAYS runns rich?

Other than that, I'm getting closer every day to being done. Thanks for looking, guys!





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  #16  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:13 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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A lot of timing lights have a built in tach. You can get an attachment for many automotive use DVOM's too. A parts store may have a timing light with a tach.

Are you tuning it with the air filter on? It does matter.
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2014, 07:17 AM
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Nice job Ryan and thanks for the update!
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2014, 10:30 AM
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Great job & pics make it complete. I wish more people would do that. But then a smart phone makes it that much easier. as opposed to stupid phones..

At least don't skimp on the hydra-oil, ain't worth it. IMO!


Was wondering if a pic is available to show how you tapped your point-saver into the points themselves? Now that would make your work totally complete.

NIK,
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  #19  
Old 04-03-2014, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by nikster View Post
Great job & pics make it complete. I wish more people would do that. But then a smart phone makes it that much easier. as opposed to stupid phones..

At least don't skimp on the hydra-oil, ain't worth it. IMO!


Was wondering if a pic is available to show how you tapped your point-saver into the points themselves? Now that would make your work totally complete.

NIK,
Thanks! I enjoy doing the work and sharing with others, I hope it can help someone out one day like others posts have helped me in the past.

Fixing the Pointsaver to the points was the easy part. Simply remove the stock points wire that goes to the coil and replace it with the Pointsaver wire. I'll try to snap a pic in the next day or so and get it up online for you

As for hydra-oil, I've always used Hy-Tran/Master-Tran in all my Cubs so far but after reading around online from enough trusted sources, I decided to try TSC Traveller Oil this time around. I can get 5 gallons of the stuff for less than the price of 2 1/2 gallons of Hy-Tran (around here, anyway). So far it's working great, but I'm already planning on changing this fluid yearly as opposed to every couple years with the Hy-Tran, but the transmission fluid debate is another topic for another day
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  #20  
Old 04-03-2014, 12:21 PM
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Good job, Ryan!
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