CC 1772 Diesel Driveshaft Brass Bushing

[Oak]

Welcome AL Farmall. I agree that the upgraded shaft is nice but going back stock isn't so bad either. As others have said, don't use the disconnect clutch, your like me in the warm south and we don't have to move snow like the yankee's do. The ball/bushing that wore out is replaceable on both ends and this company makes and sells them.http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/eng/p.../ball-bushings You will need part#HE1410P and the last time I purchased them they were less than $5 each but they have a minimum order. If your lucky that may be all you need.
If your going back original you need to replace all 4 rag joints at about $15 each. The original drive shaft is 3/4 OD and the ends are turned down to 5/8 OD and it is probably worn on the ends and needs replaced. If your not using the clutch you don't need a 3/4 shaft so get you a piece of 5/8 OD shaft material. You will need two new couplings that go on the end of the shaft because one is 3/4 OD and the other end used the clutch. The part number on those are 748-3001 and they are around $20 each. That is from a regular GT like a 1811 that uses a 5/8 shaft. These usually don't wear and maybe you can get 2 used ones. The last part needed will be the expensive splined rear coupler. I think the last one I picked up was $100. You may be able to have someone weld one up that would work from one of these.http://www.surpluscenter.com/Power-T...027-1-1495.axd that is what I will do in the future.

[andyw]

But, when reinstalling the newer style shaft you will thank your lucky stars yu did it. It is so easy compared to the rag joint shaft, dont know about you but I had one heck of a time getting mine out.

Dont let the new shaft scare you off, if your mechanicly inclined enough to get the only one out your good enough to rework the new one. for us shadetree mechanics than dont have Sams fancy lathe you can use a cufoff wheel and grinder. Then do your measuring, make a test fit and mark where your weld will be and give about 1/8" of slack as Sam suggested. Then just have someone do a siimple weld on the coupling.

Whala! you have a new driveshaft that is now worry free for years to come.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by andyw

But, when reinstalling the newer style shaft you will thank your lucky stars yu did it. It is so easy compared to the rag joint shaft, dont know about you but I had one heck of a time getting mine out.

Dont let the new shaft scare you off, if your mechanicly inclined enough to get the only one out your good enough to rework the new one. for us shadetree mechanics than dont have Sams fancy lathe you can use a cufoff wheel and grinder. Then do your measuring, make a test fit and mark where your weld will be and give about 1/8" of slack as Sam suggested. Then just have someone do a siimple weld on the coupling.

Whala! you have a new driveshaft that is now worry free for years to come.

Guys

The jury is still out as to how well the 2000 series stuff is going to last. We have had 2 of them fail so far. They were replaced with the CV style shafts from a Cub 1863. So far those are doing just fine. I'm convinced that the rubber engine mounts allow the engine to move enough that the 2000 series couplings slip out and party is over. I can furnish you with the adapters for the engine and the pump but you will need to dig up the shaft and fan yourself. Try the sponsors at the top of the page. The 1863 drive line is still available from Cub but you may need to take out a second mortgage to buy it.

[ken6x6]

^^^^ very good point. with the conversion, being able to remove the drive shaft in under 10 minutes is very helpful. if you ever need to do the alternator, water pump, belt. it saves lots of time and headaches. i personally recommend the CV style shaft for the diesels, i had the 2k style and it broke. the diesels have rubber motor mounts and the engine is able to move some. any solid mounted motor the 2k will work just fine.

[red56turbo]

Just rebuilt the driveshaft on my 1772 last fall. Went with the stock setup. Nothing wrong with the stock setup IMHO. You just have to keep an eye on the rag joints and bolts. A lot of times when we pick up these smokers, they are still on their original driveshaft assembly with a 1000 hours on them with little to no maintenance. On the other end of the spectrum, I've seen them on their second or third driveshaft with 500 hours. Not saying that someday I won't update one or two of mine with Sam's setup. His adapter/driveshaft assembly is a great setup and should have been factory.

[andyw]

Hmm, maybe I will move forward with my initial idea of a CV boot on the front coupler as some additional insurance. I will measure the OD's tonight and see what I can find. Or like I had on my my race car and simply solid mount one side of the engine to eliminate any engine twist.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by andyw

Hmm, maybe I will move forward with my initial idea of a CV boot on the front coupler as some additional insurance. I will measure the OD's tonight and see what I can find. Or like I had on my my race car and simply solid mount one side of the engine to eliminate any engine twist.

Andy

I just sent you an e-mail

[AL Farmall Boy]

The tractor is going to be a back up lawnmower (we have a Scag Zero), or might be ending up using it full time with it. Who knows....I might end up selling it (since I only paid $500 for it and 2 other IH Cub Cadets).

I do like the looks and the idea of the upgrade Sam has come up with (the one appropriate for the 1772 whichever that one is). But I am lost when reading about building one and trying to tackle that myself. Also, on rebuilding the original one....I'm sure that would be no problem for me, but would need some guidance on it if that is what i decided to do.

I reckon if there was someone local to me that could help me, or if Mr. Sam would make the shaft for me i would be able to do the conversion........................I mean, I'm sure it would cost about the same as fixing the original one anyways.

[PaulS]

It appeared to me that the cooling fan on the driveshaft may need to be replaced too. Not real expensive likely less than $25. That fan is very necessary to keep the tranny cool.

[randallc]

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas.