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  #11  
Old 01-20-2014, 09:36 AM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
X-2
There is a little leather washer, and or packing inside the on -off valve, and can be rebuilt. I have never seen a sediment bowl that can't be stopped from leaking. Most cases of removing the screw valve and packing the packing material in farther with a tiny screw driver can stop a leak as well. I myself have went to CCSpecialties and have a new replacement on hand, should I not bother to repair things like they should be.

Furthermore, there is no reason to have the class screwed up so tight as to
distort the two keeper arms, and to impede fuel flow. Not to mention the old are better made than the new. Most people wratchet the be-jeasus out of the bowl set up with their mighty 5/8ths super wrench, and crack the sodier seal which will make a bowl set up look like its leaking.

Chances are the tank needs repaired as well, which is easy to do. The wonderious epoxy cure-all will only last so long. BTDT
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2014, 02:08 PM
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Mine only leaks around the valve shaft when the shutoff valve is not fully closed or fully open.
I guess that means the I.D. of the shaft packing is worn but the O.D. of the packing is still good.
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2014, 03:43 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
Mine only leaks around the valve shaft when the shutoff valve is not fully closed or fully open.
I guess that means the I.D. of the shaft packing is worn but the O.D. of the packing is still good.
Tighten the nut a little, it should make it quit leaking.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Tighten the nut a little, it should make it quit leaking.
Well yea.
But I always turn it off when not running it.
And on when running it.
Since it don't leak during those times, I just huff the fumes for a bit from my thumb and fingers.

(that sounds weird)
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  #15  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:19 PM
bill682 bill682 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johncub7172 View Post
Not to mention the old are better made than the new.
X-2
The replacements are junk, if you have an original rebuild it.
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  #16  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bill682 View Post
X-2
The replacements are junk, if you have an original rebuild it.
I respectfully disagree. Like I mentioned before, the old pot metal gets corroded, and warps over time. Even if you took apart the old, bead blasted and rebuilt it it might still leak. For $24 it isn't worth the time.
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  #17  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:27 PM
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Sediment bowls are junk anways. I lose them and put in a petcock with a quality inline filter. I care less about period correct or original equipment looks. My 2cents
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  #18  
Old 01-20-2014, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs View Post
Sediment bowls are junk anways. I lose them and put in a petcock with a quality inline filter. I care less about period correct or original equipment looks. My 2cents
X2 looks good but leaks or do as Kelly did and no leaks plus it's cheaper to do it this way.

http://www.griggslawnandtractor.com/...uel-Cut/Detail

http://www.amazon.com/Hose-Male-Tubi...d_sim_indust_4
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:10 PM
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I prefer the sediment bowl.
I like to see what is accumulating in it.
Easy peezee to shut fuel off, clean it out and put back.
Versus a filter you can't see into and must assume it is about time to replace just because. Plus you have to pull the hoses off if they will pull off.
And if they pull off I always end up with skinned knuckles.

To each his own I guess.
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  #20  
Old 01-21-2014, 07:51 PM
hondaxr hondaxr is offline
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Default Leak

Thank You to ALL! I will try to seal the gaskets with Permatex! The fuel shut off valve is where it leaks the most! If this continues I will try the Petcock and inline filter method!
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