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  #11  
Old 01-03-2014, 12:28 AM
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macman81 macman81 is offline
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maybe we should also be polling to see what weight oil we are all running in winter. I used to run straight 30wt year round but that doesn't work AT ALL in the cold. now I'm running 10w30 in winter and wondering about synthetic or lighter oil yet as it still seems thick at cold temps.
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:14 AM
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iirc the owners manual states for temps below 30 you should run 10w30 and over should be 30 weight. Personally I run synthetic in mine and couldn't be happier.
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:38 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Although oil and cold temps are a factor here, if the starter doesn't crank very fast I'd be looking at the battery, S/G and the wiring. Yeah, they're hard to start cold.... but a gas motor really should start. If you keep it outside, a lower viscosity oil is a good idea, but I'd be surprised if it makes it spin easier. The K series doesn't have an oil pump, remember? It's not like there is cold oil that has to be pumped, or is being pumped into the engine bearings. I really think there are other issues. Could even be timing, and carb settings. I'd suggest a good look-see of the starting system and a thorough tuning.
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  #14  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:44 AM
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Quote:
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iirc the owners manual states for temps below 30 you should run 10w30 and over should be 30 weight. Personally I run synthetic in mine and couldn't be happier.
I thought it said 5w-30 but maybe I'm wrong? Either way I to run straight 30 at - Rotella specifically.
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  #15  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Although oil and cold temps are a factor here, if the starter doesn't crank very fast I'd be looking at the battery, S/G and the wiring. Yeah, they're hard to start cold.... but a gas motor really should start. If you keep it outside, a lower viscosity oil is a good idea, but I'd be surprised if it makes it spin easier. The K series doesn't have an oil pump, remember? It's not like there is cold oil that has to be pumped, or is being pumped into the engine bearings. I really think there are other issues. Could even be timing, and carb settings. I'd suggest a good look-see of the starting system and a thorough tuning.
Not to contradict your fine judgement as you def know your stuff but I think it is a combination of the battery and the oil. I run rotella straight 30 as you recommended to me and my tractor as of November has a new battery and a new porch electric wiring harness and when it's cold she does crank really slow...but after a few revolutions she frees up a bit
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  #16  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:52 AM
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http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...-26lg?id=21121The hydro tractors can be a pain to start in the cold cuz of the cold thick fluid the engine oil I dont think plays as much as a roll in it. Maybe this would help with the rearend
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  #17  
Old 01-03-2014, 01:17 PM
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I had issues with mine starting last year when it was cold (the 147). I bought the biggest CCA that TSC sold (higher than a lot of other batts. but I forget off hand what the CCA is) and I put it on a maintainer when I am anticipating needing it the next day, usually overnight. I also run 10W 30 conventional oil. It sits in an unheated garage. Knock on wood I've not had any issues with it starting yet. If she won't turn over well in the future I'm going to put on a rear end magnetic heater.
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  #18  
Old 01-03-2014, 02:51 PM
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The hydro tractors can be a pain to start in the cold cuz of the cold thick fluid the engine oil I dont think plays as much as a roll in it.
That is very accurate.
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  #19  
Old 01-03-2014, 03:22 PM
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I find it is easier to start with closed throttle,
and a fully charged battery.
Yes! Once I start mine, I immediately open the choke just enough to make the black smoke disappear. About a minute or so, slowly open the throttle.
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2014, 03:27 PM
Mortgaged Mortgaged is offline
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I've used the Wolverine heaters in the past on my truck and they work ok. Good for the engine with warm oil, but still took a long time to thaw out the antifreeze and warm up the interior. Biggest issue with our CC's is finding a spot to install them. Unfortunately, the only real estate that's big enough on the oil pan is directly over the axle so the engine would need to be pulled to get properly installed.

Today I resorted to holding up my propane torch to the carb inlet and let the engine pull in the hot air (being careful not to set the tractor on fire). This trick along with a jumper cable to my running truck got my 1450 running. Once that one was running, I used it to pullstart my 100 as I can't get the S/G to turn the engine over in the cold.
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