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#11
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Here's what I'm talking about http://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Temp...item27b79ef367 |
#12
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For safety sake, I hope that you do not opt for the duct work and exhaust....not a healthy option (besides, you will be "exhausted" in a short while). Why not just invest (about $50+...depending on what you want) in a set of coveralls or the like. I plowed on my 73 with them without a cab for about an hour and never got cold in 12* temps today.
If you really want to run ducts, then you could route them from the head with a clip on fan in the cab to pull the warmer air inside (but if your head gasket is leaking, this isn't any better of an option). Eager to see what you come up with! Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. ![]() |
#13
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A guy in my area just died from carbon monoxide poisoning. Not tractor related but makes me think that ducting air from the exhaust area is a real bad idea. It seems that every winter several people die this way usually running generators or heaters. Carbon monoxide is evil stuff
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I will attempt to address my procrastination problem while you wait. ![]() |
#14
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My concerns would relate to those already listed.
![]() Fooling around with exhaust is not worth the possibility of something going wrong? As mentioned; a head gasket starts leaking? It wouldn't take long to get sick from carbon monoxide fumes, & you wouldn't know it at the time. IMO! Dress properly. Buy a pair if Carhart overalls & be done with it. Wear a full face covering for the your head. I'm toasty as can be as I was plowing yesterday except for my hands. Looking into investing in battery operated gloves for a little heat. Old injuries, broken knuckles, fingers are taking their toll in blood circulation as I get older & older. ![]() ![]() NIK, Or? Look into some ice fishing shanty heat? They've got small one man heaters for dem'dere shanty s that work quite well. Small propane bottles that last at least 2/3 hrs..???????
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It dont cut grass, but its yellow. |
#15
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Propane heater produces carbon monoxide also.
Virtually nothing that burns fossil fuel does not produce carbon monoxide. You have to have 100% combustion which is very hard to achieve. http://www.propane101.com/carbonmonoxideandpropane.htm Why not try the duct work from the engine and spend $25 for a battery operated carbon monoxide detector for inside the cab? With the detector, you can safeguard yourself which ever way you go. You could also use the detector to see if there is exhaust/CO leaking into the engine area before you go with the duct. Just place the CO detector in there somewhere and then close it off as much as possible with whatever. Wrapping the muffler with tubing............how does the fluid get circulated? A 12V electric pump? |
#16
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What about an electric heater in the cab (hear me out first)?
use a cigarett lighter one that you are comfortable with the load draw, but preheat the cab with a standard indoor heater before you go to use it. Your radiator idea is interesting, and would certianly pull some heat, but that could Whatever you do, NO NOT pull off engine heat, way to easy to CO poison yourself inside a cab. That said...Cub Cadet 123 and Nickster are right...dress warm enough. No matter how you try to heat your cab, you will not get great heat distribution, your feet wil always be cold, or something. |
#17
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I agree, piping anything from the engine compartment has so many possibilities of something going wrong (dead wrong)! Your in a cab out of the eliments, dress appropriately and I bet the biggest problem you will have is the windows fogging up from the heat YOU produce. If anything you will need a fan to move the air around and help prevent the windows from fogging up. Check out the guys that have cabs on here already, see what their set ups are and ask them what, if any issues they have using them. Unless your working in t-shirt and shorts, you don't need heat in your cab. If you don't like the electric route and you can't heat it with a normal cab heating system using coolant (which you won't have on an older Cub) - dress warm. I don't believe your traveling to the North Pole to do snow removal with your Cub are you?
Think safety, its your life. Just my ![]()
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Mike Ontario, Canada IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#18
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Hmmm.....not 100% sure of this, but it seems like I heard once that if you don't want your windshield to fog up, then you can smear some toothpaste--Crest or Colgate (forget which one it was) on the window and then wipe it off with dry towels. I'm not for sure where I heard that, but it seems like I was reading somewhere about tractor "tricks", like if you are storing your cub over the winter in a barn or garage and you want to keep the mice from nesting, then take a netted potato sack and fill it full of onions and moth balls. Then place it on the top of the engine, but just don't forget to remove it before starting your cub!
Anyone else ever hear of either one of these.....maybe I'm just imagining it. ![]() Cub Cadet 123
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Still don't know what I'm doing in OHIO?.....If you find me, then please point me back toward INDIANA. ![]() |
#19
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Foggy windows:
wipe down with Rain-X. |
#20
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Ok, I have to say it.
I think you guys who are worried about a leaking head gasket and carbon monoxide are nuts. I have spent way too many hours in a fully enclosed cab with a heat-houser to think it was a concern. They made enclosed cabs for tractors that also had canvas that wrapped around the engine and pushed the air from the cooling fan across the engine and into the cab. The cab wasn't air tight enough to worry about. Neither is the cab on the cubs. You can see daylight in big gaps around most of the edges. Besides, most of them have a window, and I usually end up getting out every so often. It's not an air tight cab like on a car! As far as propane heat and CO is concerned, I LIVE in a house that only has a vent-less heater in it. We use propane. Other than some electric heaters it's all we have. CO detectors in the house and we are good. There is no way either of these two options would ever get enough CO into that cab to even make you sleepy. Besides, if you had an exhaust leak of any kind, as rich as these air cooled engines have to run, your nose and eyes would be burning so bad you wouldn't be able to handle it before CO ever got bad enough to make you pass out. Just my ![]() End of rant. john Deere.htm_txt_King_KAB__black_and_white_Pic.gif |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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