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  #11  
Old 12-22-2013, 11:42 PM
hattrick4467 hattrick4467 is offline
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Gotcha. I did not realize that the bearing had a shoulder. And then just a piece of plastic as a spacer? Do you have a part number for the bearings?
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  #12  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:53 AM
dgrapes59 dgrapes59 is offline
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It used the plastic "bushing" originally, the bearing can be used as an "upgrade", either will work. If the steering tube is worn at all either may work it's way out, you can add washers as spacers under the steering wheel to help keep it in place.
Good luck,
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  #13  
Old 12-23-2013, 09:33 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is online now
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TIP:

If the bearing is sloppy in the tube, use a few 3,4 whatever it takes, small pieces of tin, sheet metal, Coffee can, whatever. Cut 'em about 1/4"or 3/8" X 1" or so and bend one end over about 1/4".

Place these around the inside of the tube and cram the bearing in so it is tight.
I have had to do this with several Cub front wheels in order to get the bearing tight in the hub.
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  #14  
Old 12-23-2013, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
TIP:

If the bearing is sloppy in the tube, use a few 3,4 whatever it takes, small pieces of tin, sheet metal, Coffee can, whatever. Cut 'em about 1/4"or 3/8" X 1" or so and bend one end over about 1/4".

Place these around the inside of the tube and cram the bearing in so it is tight.
I have had to do this with several Cub front wheels in order to get the bearing tight in the hub.
I have also used a wheel bearing in the past. To make it tight in the tube i have done two different things or a combo of both would work too........

A. Use a center punch and put 3 or 4 dimples spaced evenly around the ouside of the tube about 3/16 down from the end. The raised tip of the dimple on the inside will grip the bearing.

B. Apply a SMALL amount of JB Weld or a similar adhesive to the inside of the tube before you slide the bearing in.
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  #15  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:44 PM
hattrick4467 hattrick4467 is offline
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First of all thanks for all that have replied. I just want to clarify a couple of things.

Was the original "bearing" shown in the parts breakdoen just a plastic bushing that fit inside the column shaft and extended to the steering wheel? Or was there an actual bearing plus the plastic spacer as Lew has shown? I like the bearing idea if it fits correctly but if not I would just like to go stock to keep things clean without hacking the thing up too much.
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  #16  
Old 12-23-2013, 01:11 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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here is a picture of what belongs in your steering column.The foam bushing holds the plastic one in place.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2013, 02:14 PM
hattrick4467 hattrick4467 is offline
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I like the looks of the wheel bearing. Seems like alot better solution long term. The one that you showed in your previous both looked pretty snug. Is that what you have found with doing the wheel bearing?
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2013, 05:24 PM
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Mine fit snug,but I did the dimple thing just in case.
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2013, 06:27 PM
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I was surprised by the parts IH Cub Cadet I had pulled from the scrap recycler a few summers ago. The Ross steering unit was in good shape, aside from needing a typical rebuild. Someone had machined a brass bushing, similar to what is found in the front wheels of the original IH Cub Cadet, in place of the wheel bearing we're discussing here. The bushing was drilled and tapped, the outside shaft tube assembly drilled too, and a 90* grease fitting is in the hole.

I thought I had pictures somewhere about it, but like everything else at the moment,..... . The wheel bearing the group is discussing sounds like a winner! Good luck!
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:10 AM
jcsmith jcsmith is offline
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Default sloppy bearing

hattrick 4467, when I rebuilt my steering column , the wheel bearing used up top was sloppy, so I wrapped a few pieces of aluminum duct tape around the bearing until it fit snug. Works great.

Chris
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