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  #11  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:39 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Let me know is you need help...you have my #
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  #12  
Old 12-13-2013, 06:46 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by austin8214 View Post
You can check here too. http://www.zkbrmachine.com/
I'd at least run the Kevlar disc if it was me.
Why spend the money on a Kevlar..... No need. It's not a puller.
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  #13  
Old 12-13-2013, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Why spend the money on a Kevlar..... No need. It's not a puller.

How much is a stock disc? A new Kevlar disc is $30. A new stock disc is $45. Don't automatically assume it is more expensive if it is a pulling part. One pulling vendor has probably sold more clutch parts in the last year than Cub Cadet has in the last three years.
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by austin8214 View Post
How much is a stock disc? A new Kevlar disc is $30. A new stock disc is $45. Don't automatically assume it is more expensive if it is a pulling part. One pulling vendor has probably sold more clutch parts in the last year than Cub Cadet has in the last three years.
I didn't assume it was more expensive because it was a puller clutch. I build and use Kevlar clutches in other applications, and they are more expensive. I admit, I didn't compare price for the cub clutch. Just based it off what I buy. Still, Kevlar isn't as forgiving about its use. I.E. they don't like oil, and at least the ones I use don't tend to have as smooth of engagement as an organic clutch.
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  #15  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:00 PM
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The Kevlar disk is only $30. probably less than MTD gets for a stock disk. I make my driveshafts out of 5/8 4140 prehard which is what Midwest use's. its actually pretty cheap compared to MTD price's
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  #16  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I didn't assume it was more expensive because it was a puller clutch. I build and use Kevlar clutches in other applications, and they are more expensive. I admit, I didn't compare price for the cub clutch. Just based it off what I buy. Still, Kevlar isn't as forgiving about its use. I.E. they don't like oil, and at least the ones I use don't tend to have as smooth of engagement as an organic clutch.
Jon

The Kevlar one I have is smooth as silk. My guess is because the spring is set for stock type use rather than puller use. I'm happy with it but I don't run it all that much.
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  #17  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I didn't assume it was more expensive because it was a puller clutch. I build and use Kevlar clutches in other applications, and they are more expensive. I admit, I didn't compare price for the cub clutch. Just based it off what I buy. Still, Kevlar isn't as forgiving about its use. I.E. they don't like oil, and at least the ones I use don't tend to have as smooth of engagement as an organic clutch.
There is more surface area on the Kevlar discs compared to the stock disc. I like the way they work better than stock. The hole in the middle is less than half the diameter of the one on the stock disc. With the center spring I feel like it gives you more control.
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  #18  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:33 PM
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I'm glad to hear all this! Like I stated, I assumed the price. I really like the Kevlar clutches I put in all other applications. We use it for various reasons. The Kevlar tends to be much smoother than ceramic, but wont take slip like organic. Glad that so many have good things to say! I had no idea there would be so many in non pulling uses. With all what you guys are saying I believe the next one I get will be Kevlar!
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2013, 10:08 PM
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That's for all this great info! I really had no idea there where so many different types of materials used for these disks. Since I have to buy new ones I might give these kevlar ones a shot. Seem to be getting some great feedback. That being said, is there a grade of kevlar material that I should ask/look for to be used in a non-puller? All my tractors will be used for common home use. I might have them pull some heavy loads, but that's about it. One thing that I was looking to work out is the why these tractors kind of jump once you put them into gear and pull off the clutch. With hydros you can kind of ease into it. The only way I can see doing that with a gear style is riding the clutch which is not a great idea. I read that metal disks are out there but they are quite unforgiving when it comes to this. Is kevlar going to give me whiplash when I take my foot off the pedal? Again, since I have to buy new ones anyway I might as well ask some questions ahead of time and get the right ones. Thank you all
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2013, 10:17 PM
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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