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  #11  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:41 PM
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Also, Roland says that rods can break just from age and fatigue.
Hmmm, that sounds like me!
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  #12  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:46 PM
Niteblaster Niteblaster is offline
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thanks I think it was due to low oil tho judging by the crank. Unfortunately I already cleaned up the crank bets I could before I read the post not to. I really don't know how to take the crank out anyway and I have been trying to view the pdf manual but my computer keeps freezing up and won't load the pages so no luck there. Am I wasting my money by just replacing the connecting rod if the crank is slightly out of round or not polished completey smooth?
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  #13  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:59 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Am I wasting my money by just replacing the connecting rod if the crank is slightly out of round or not polished completey smooth?
I'm sure others will disagree, but I say yes. I've built a lot of motors, and with the price of Kohler parts..... I wouldn't do it. Now, I'm not going to preach about the "right" way to rebuild at this time, but if the crank is out-of-round or has any burs on it, it's just going to eat that new rod. And that, is a fact. If this motor had a pressurized lube system, you might get away with it. But, if there is anything a "splash lube" motor needs, it's a tight, true and clean rod journal!
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  #14  
Old 07-31-2013, 07:03 PM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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I'm sure others will disagree, but I say yes. I've built a lot of motors, and with the price of Kohler parts..... I wouldn't do it. Now, I'm not going to preach about the "right" way to rebuild at this time, but if the crank is out-of-round or has any burs on it, it's just going to eat that new rod. And that, is a fact. If this motor had a pressurized lube system, you might get away with it. But, if there is anything a "splash lube" motor needs, it's a tight, true and clean rod journal!
I agree!...
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  #15  
Old 07-31-2013, 07:20 PM
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I'm sure others will disagree, but I say yes. I've built a lot of motors, and with the price of Kohler parts..... I wouldn't do it. Now, I'm not going to preach about the "right" way to rebuild at this time, but if the crank is out-of-round or has any burs on it, it's just going to eat that new rod. And that, is a fact. If this motor had a pressurized lube system, you might get away with it. But, if there is anything a "splash lube" motor needs, it's a tight, true and clean rod journal!
X3 on the rebuild. It's one of them "You never got time to do it right but you always have time to do it over" things. My shop teacher in high school back in the 70's used to preach that to us all the time.
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  #16  
Old 07-31-2013, 07:46 PM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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X3 on the rebuild. It's one of them "You never got time to do it right but you always have time to do it over" things. My shop teacher in high school back in the 70's used to preach that to us all the time.
Only thing I would add to your shop teacher's sermon is, with experience comes a determination of what will go and what won't. The money difference can be huge.

It is very easy and safe to preach what is the "right" way. Unpopular to preach a "maybe".
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  #17  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:45 PM
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Niteblaster I don't know where in NY you live but I have a 241 block that has a good crank and rod in it. It is yours if you want to pick it up.
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:47 PM
rweaver rweaver is offline
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when a engine is run low on oil to clean the alum off the crank use muridic acid then mic it to make sure its in spec
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  #19  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:07 PM
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Please, don't use a dremel on your crankshaft....... just take it somewhere and get it cleaned, measured, ground if necessary, or polished. You nick that crank with the dremel just right, and you'll be back where you started with a broken/ seized rod.

It could be a 10hp or a 12. The tins and blocks are same size, just different bore and crank. The block is "stamped" (raised cast numbers actually) on the PTO end either with a K241 or K301. Be careful though, there are some 10hp motors (K241's) that are marked K301. So, your better off using crank numbers, or measuring the bore.
X2

Dremel is a big no-no on a crank journal.
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  #20  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:08 PM
Niteblaster Niteblaster is offline
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Thanks again everyone and Cubs-n-Bxrs I sent you a private message I am interested in that 241 block that you have. Please let me know if you did not get my private message.
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