125 motion question

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Well, it's a spirol roll pin, and no, there is one at the hydro end also.

Parts look up as follows.
19837- R2 Dowel Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 that is the front
915-0114 Coiled Spring Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 for the rear next to the pump.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Parts look up as follows.
19837- R2 Dowel Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 that is the front
915-0114 Coiled Spring Pin, 1/4 x 1-1/2 for the rear next to the pump.

Well, I stand corrected! The rear only uses the spirol pin! On the models newer, they are both the same. I did not realize the 125 used two different ones! I even double checked the parts blowout before that post just to be sure that it wasn't different..... I didn't check the part #'s just the pic.

So, it was a sheared pin? Which end?

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Well, I stand corrected! The rear only uses the spirol pin! On the models newer, they are both the same. I did not realize the 125 used two different ones! I even double checked the parts blowout before that post just to be sure that it wasn't different..... I didn't check the part #'s just the pic.

So, it was a sheared pin? Which end?

Don't know what the heck is going on. Checked both the front and rear "pins" and they are fine. Pulled the fenders and put a vice grip on the driveshaft and tried turning the "output shaft" and it won't move, so it's still connected.
Jacked up the rear and spun the tires and they still move in opposite directions. The relief valves function normal, start the tractor and they pop up, shut off the tractor and it won't move until the relief valve lever is pushed down, so I don't know.
That's as far as I've got today.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Don't know what the heck is going on. Checked both the front and rear "pins" and they are fine. Pulled the fenders and put a vice grip on the driveshaft and tried turning the "output shaft" and it won't move, so it's still connected.
Jacked up the rear and spun the tires and they still move in opposite directions. The relief valves function normal, start the tractor and they pop up, shut off the tractor and it won't move until the relief valve lever is pushed down, so I don't know.
That's as far as I've got today.

Ok, so I'm going to reiterate to make sure we are all on the same page. The pins are fine and intact. When you try to turn the shaft coming out the back side of the pump, it is tight with the driveshaft. When running, the buttons on the relief valves pop up.

SO, we can safely assume that the charge pump is making pressure, and that the hydro pump is turning.

Now, you say that when you jack up the rear, that you can turn one wheel, and the other turns opposite. So, it's safe to assume that the spider gears in the diff a intact.

What happens when you try to turn the wheels the same direction at the same time with it jacked up? You also say it won't "free wheel" until the buttons on the relief valves are depressed......

Is this all correct?

If so, I would say that the next thing I would do is try running it with it jacked up and see if the wheels try to turn. Also, when trying to move it running using the hydro, does it whine like it is trying to move? Or does it just sit quietly?

I am starting to lean towards either a shattered reduction gear, or a shattered drive motor in the pump. It may be a good idea to drain the rear and see if there is any metal in the oil...... At this point, I would say it gets expensive from here. Sorry, I know that I said a lot, let us know what you find!

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Ok, so I'm going to reiterate to make sure we are all on the same page. The pins are fine and intact. When you try to turn the shaft coming out the back side of the pump, it is tight with the driveshaft. When running, the buttons on the relief valves pop up.

SO, we can safely assume that the charge pump is making pressure, and that the hydro pump is turning.

Now, you say that when you jack up the rear, that you can turn one wheel, and the other turns opposite. So, it's safe to assume that the spider gears in the diff a intact.

What happens when you try to turn the wheels the same direction at the same time with it jacked up? You also say it won't "free wheel" until the buttons on the relief valves are depressed......

Is this all correct?

If so, I would say that the next thing I would do is try running it with it jacked up and see if the wheels try to turn. Also, when trying to move it running using the hydro, does it whine like it is trying to move? Or does it just sit quietly?

I am starting to lean towards either a shattered reduction gear, or a shattered drive motor in the pump. It may be a good idea to drain the rear and see if there is any metal in the oil...... At this point, I would say it gets expensive from here. Sorry, I know that I said a lot, let us know what you find!

OK Jonathan,
You are correct on what's been tried so far. I was told to try and turn the wheels the same direction, but I can't do it in the chair, so I'll have to wait to get some help to try that next. Don't feel like falling out
Also there is NO whine "it sits quietly" while moving the lever, but I didn't try with it jacked up.
I'll see if the wife can help me move the wheels in the same direction before she heads to work in the morning. Then I'll try and see if anything moves with it off the ground and report back.
Thank you much for the ideas.

[zippy1]

Alright, here's where I'm at on the no-motion 125.
Tried moving both wheels in the same direction by hand, yes they do.
Checked the drive shaft pins again just to be sure I didn't miss anything, both front and rear are good.
So I tried something else today. I have all four corners off the ground where I can see the relief valves. Pushed them down with the lever and started the tractor, they came up about half of full, (when I couldn't see them before they seemed they were coming up all the way. tried the control lever, no wheel motion. Shut off the tractor and took a scraper and reached in and pushed them up all the way.
Started the tractor and moved the control lever forward, and the left wheel made a few rotations, well actually spun pretty normal, then just stopped.
Went through the same thing over again, but this time I had very little movement in the wheel.
So....now what?

[darkminion_17]

Change the filter.
cheaper and easier than total disassemble.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Change the filter.
cheaper and easier than total disassemble.

Lew, normally I would agree, but Zippy said it was working fine, then made a nasty noise when it quit. Wouldn't have done that if the filter was just plugged.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by zippy1

Alright, here's where I'm at on the no-motion 125.
Tried moving both wheels in the same direction by hand, yes they do.
Checked the drive shaft pins again just to be sure I didn't miss anything, both front and rear are good.
So I tried something else today. I have all four corners off the ground where I can see the relief valves. Pushed them down with the lever and started the tractor, they came up about half of full, (when I couldn't see them before they seemed they were coming up all the way. tried the control lever, no wheel motion. Shut off the tractor and took a scraper and reached in and pushed them up all the way.
Started the tractor and moved the control lever forward, and the left wheel made a few rotations, well actually spun pretty normal, then just stopped.
Went through the same thing over again, but this time I had very little movement in the wheel.
So....now what?

Ok. I'm going to give you a couple choices.

1.) Hook a gauge up to the hydro, as per the manual, and test the charge pump pressure. (If you need help on how to do that, let me know.) Just as a "for sure" measure to confirm what I think happened. I'm only suggesting this because the next step is much more involved.

2.) If you choose not to check pressure: First pull the rear cover and see if the ring and/ pinion has failed. Whether it has or hasn't your going to have to pull the rear at this point. Pulling the cover first allows you to keep the tractor mobile until it can be fixed. If it's sitting in a good spot you can pull the rear first then the cover if you want.
If the ring and pinion check out, remove the hydrostat unit from the transaxle. Then you will be able to check the final drive and see if the problem is there. You will be looking for a chipped gear, or broken shaft. It should be obvious.
If you find nothing then it is probably the motor inside of the pump, and I would recommend finding another hydro at that point.

I am hoping that you find a chipped gear, but at this point it could be anything I mentioned.... It's not good my friend.

[drglinski]

When you start the engine can you see the driveshaft spinning? If the answer is yes, the front pin is fine. Did you check the hydro linkage to see if something came apart?