My 127 - Page 2

nikster · #11 06-01-2013, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seawalkersee

I think it was just a bit more than heat shrink could handle.

SWS

That looks like my original harness, yuk! How in the world does one figure out the colors when they look like that!

seawalkersee · #12 06-04-2013, 11:39 AM

I did not figure out the colors. I looked at it and thought it was screwed. No point in tracing wires and such. I just pulled the wiring diagram off of this site and made the new one. The lengths are a bit off on a few of the wires but nothing that can't be fudged. The slip connector that is shaped like a "U" is the one that is supposed to ground on the top center of the core support. It grounds under the head light panel bolt on the right hand side front. There is a little extra on a few of the other wires, but I made it while the actual tractor was 40 miles away.

Most of the connectors have an ease of access to that I could solder them if/when they break. So, when I can figure out how to get the rod out of the hydro and weld it up, I should have most of the leaks on the hydro fixed and the slack taken out of it. Just a handfull of things left to do.

I do not think Megasquirt has a kit for a 30" engine. There is a small engine turbo and EFI kit I have found. Not too bad, but it will probably wait until I decide to pull the engine out and do flow work to the block.

I will make some vids later when I get to it.

SWS

Sugarmaker · #13 06-04-2013, 10:05 PM

SWS,
You sound pretty serious. The new wiring harness looks good. Old one looks like most from that vintage, I have a 127 that I mowed with tonight. They are good machines. Also have a 147R that ia a good tractor too. Have fun. I know nothing about turbos, will that really work with this Kohler engine?
Keep us posted.
Regards,
Chris

seawalkersee · #14 06-07-2013, 01:07 AM

Im not sure if I will be able to find a turbo small enough to make it worth the while. I only want it to maintain the power when I am mowing/plowing/tilling etc. The EFI is specifically to keep it sipping fuel without problems. As of right now, that stuff is down the road. Things to do now are

1) Fix the hydro leaks
2) Make the drive shaft swap putting the rag at the front and u-joint at the rear
3) Put it back together and make sure the PTO works

With all that, I am going to get a points saver and Bosch coil to help with the ignition.

I do need some help though:

Can anyone get me a description or link to getting the trunion arm out of the side of the hydro? I pulled the C-clip and washer tonight and it still is in there. When I spin the pump, I can feel it grab the shaft. Even an exploded view may help, but I have one of those. I am looking for a larger scale one though...

SWS

J-Mech · #15 06-07-2013, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seawalkersee

Im not sure if I will be able to find a turbo small enough to make it worth the while. I only want it to maintain the power when I am mowing/plowing/tilling etc. The EFI is specifically to keep it sipping fuel without problems. As of right now, that stuff is down the road. Things to do now are

1) Fix the hydro leaks
2) Make the drive shaft swap putting the rag at the front and u-joint at the rear
3) Put it back together and make sure the PTO works

With all that, I am going to get a points saver and Bosch coil to help with the ignition.

I do need some help though:

Can anyone get me a description or link to getting the trunion arm out of the side of the hydro? I pulled the C-clip and washer tonight and it still is in there. When I spin the pump, I can feel it grab the shaft. Even an exploded view may help, but I have one of those. I am looking for a larger scale one though...

SWS

The trunion shaft won't come out without complete disassembly. Why do you want it out? If it is leaking there, usually a seal will fix it.

seawalkersee · #16 06-09-2013, 10:18 AM

I want to take it out so I can weld up the spring perch on it and tighten it up. My welder is here, and the rear end is at my dads 40 minutes+ away. It sucks to have to work on it for a part of a day, almost 1 day a week. I cant fit the whole thing at my house, so I have it at his shop...with no welder or tools I have here. So I was going to yank it, weld it up, put it back together, and put it back in the tractor. That is my big hold up now.

SWS

J-Mech · #17 06-09-2013, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seawalkersee

I want to take it out so I can weld up the spring perch on it and tighten it up. My welder is here, and the rear end is at my dads 40 minutes+ away. It sucks to have to work on it for a part of a day, almost 1 day a week. I cant fit the whole thing at my house, so I have it at his shop...with no welder or tools I have here. So I was going to yank it, weld it up, put it back together, and put it back in the tractor. That is my big hold up now.

SWS

hydro linkage.jpg

If you are referring to #1 in the pic, then yes, it will come off without disassembly. It may just be stuck on the shaft.

Hydro.jpg

If you are referring to #50 in this pic, it will not come out unless you disassemble the hydro.

seawalkersee · #18 06-10-2013, 01:18 AM

Yeah, its #50. I was afraid of that. I guess I could always cut it off, fix it and then weld it back on...But that may cause alignment issues. Probably will load up the rear and fix it here, then take it back. Sounds like I have plans for Tuesday.

SWS

J-Mech · #19 06-10-2013, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seawalkersee

Yeah, its #50. I was afraid of that. I guess I could always cut it off, fix it and then weld it back on...But that may cause alignment issues. Probably will load up the rear and fix it here, then take it back. Sounds like I have plans for Tuesday.

SWS

No, don't cut it off. Or weld anywhere near that shaft, there is a seal behind it. I think maybe you should read this before you proceed. If you have any questions, PM me on this site. I'll get an e-mail and can get right back to you.