Cco #44578 - Page 2

fleetlines · #11 05-24-2013, 06:42 PM

She fired right up on starting fluid. I may have done the carb already but I'll do it again anyway since it sat so long so I didn't bother with gas. As I recall the points were replaced (or just reset) and I decarboned it already. I believe I shaved the head also. I'll have to open it up to check I guess.
I've been soaking the steering wheel the last few days. I'll need to give that a try soon. It steers alright but it's time it was serviced from what I've seen with some of yours. I'll remove the tower but I don't want to split it if I can avoid it. I don't know of any reason to split it. Is there something I should service that requires me splitting it?
When I have the back end open and the shifter off, can I use a power washer to get it glean in there? Should I use kerosine? The rust particles are my concern. Maybe I should run it with some cheap hydro fluid a couple times to flush it? I won't miss the fluid. I've never done more than change the fluids in there and could really use some advice.

PaulS · #12 05-24-2013, 07:40 PM

Wow Curtis when you start nothing stops you. We bought a 2072 that the rear hydro fluid was like light chocolate milk. We are planning on putting some cheap hydro fluid in and run a bit and change again just to get as much of that watered down fluid out as possible. After turkey season is over I may come over to see you.

fleetlines · #13 05-24-2013, 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulS

Wow Curtis when you start nothing stops you. We bought a 2072 that the rear hydro fluid was like light chocolate milk. We are planning on putting some cheap hydro fluid in and run a bit and change again just to get as much of that watered down fluid out as possible. After turkey season is over I may come over to see you.

Chocolate milk? I wonder if they used HyTran.
I have a couple gallons of cheap fluid. I think I'll run it through a couple times or more unless someone chimes in with a better solution. I suppose I should get it going with gas so I can flush it out before painting. I'll be spraying it with an air paint sprayer this time using Majic paint, reducer and hardener.

It will be nice to see you again. Actually, I hope Eric isn't to busy to weld a couple things for me so I may get out there first. I shot him a PM last night. I need that seat and deck welded on this O and a jack welded to my trailer tongue.

fleetlines · #14 05-24-2013, 09:12 PM

It ran on gasoline. Took a little cranking but not to much. No choke got it running so I doubt I put a kit in last time around. I'll not get anything done to it from tomorrow afternoon till at least Monday.

fleetlines · #15 05-28-2013, 05:05 PM

I cleaned the rear as best I could. I still hadn't recycled the HyTran from my last change, which wasn't too bad, so I used it to flush out the rear end. I think it was rust from the shifter plate that fell during the power wash. The pics looked worse than it really was. I'm content with calling it clean now.

After tightening the drive belt it climbed a steep hill in third. It didn't seem to have the speed on level ground though. I'm used to the 1650 which tops at 8 mph and the 72 which tops at 6.8 mph. The 72 was rebuilt by a PO to be a puller. I don't know if anything concerning speed was messed with. The O is supposed to be 6.9 mph so we'll have to see how that plays out. It wasn't full of fluid for the flush and little "test" drive but it was close enough I thought. It also rolls easy enough so it's not that the wheels need greased. I don't think the clutch slipped since it climbed that hill. I'm hopeful it's just carbon. I don't believe I decarboned this engine as I had thought. I'm anxious to open it up to see it's condition.

The clutch did not fully release unless it was already in a gear. That needs adjusted.

I want to relocate the coil. This mount isn't right but I would feel better with it on the tower.

Still wondering if I should split the tractor. Splitting it sounded daunting but what I read on it didn't seem bad but I've never split one before. Unless there is a speed issue to address there I don't see any reason to.

Pulling the engine and steering wheel will be next when it's done draining.

Pic 1 is the deck. Pic 2 & 3 are the seat. 4 shows the coil mount.

fleetlines · #16 05-28-2013, 10:36 PM

Some debris was found in the fins. No surprise there. The head gasket looked to have melted. Carbon was fairly thick where it was but I've seen much worse. The piston was stamped 30 over already. I didn't measure the bore and don't know if I still have a tool to do so. The pics of the bore portray it well. Now the head

It has a crack - but it does not extend into where the gasket is yet so I think I'll still use it for now. I think I'll check the gap and reseat the valves. Give it a new head gasket and points (if needed) and run it as it is. I didn't get to try the steering wheel yet.

I have an engine out of a 149. Condition is unknown. Thinking I may look into repowering it with that.

fleetlines · #17 05-28-2013, 10:56 PM

I almost forgot. The bolt holding the governor was loose and literally let the throttle cable come off in my hand as soon as I touched it to disconnect it. I'm hopeful that is my ground speed issue. Not that it was extremely slow. I've never messed with governor either. It's time I learn.

C5rider · #18 05-30-2013, 12:24 PM

Great to see these ol' girls still coming around!

That 14hp (out of the 149) should fit in there, but you might have some issues with the gas tank. Mine has a 10-horse Kohler in it and I needed to modify the mount on mine to put it more between the engine blower housing and the battery. I also installed a smaller battery, but not sure that it was necessary. Check and see. I REALLY like these "O"s. They're simple and versitile and fun to play with!

Keep us informed!

fleetlines · #19 05-30-2013, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C5rider

Great to see these ol' girls still coming around!

That 14hp (out of the 149) should fit in there, but you might have some issues with the gas tank. Mine has a 10-horse Kohler in it and I needed to modify the mount on mine to put it more between the engine blower housing and the battery. I also installed a smaller battery, but not sure that it was necessary. Check and see. I REALLY like these "O"s. They're simple and versitile and fun to play with!

Keep us informed!

Last night I tried the steering wheel with no success and cut some gaskets for the rear so I could put the covers back on to keep the dirt out. I wasn't to aggressive with the wheel. As you can see, it needs to come off. The second pic is what fell off the gov. when I touched it. I need to find a wright-up on the gov. and want to get the underside power washed today.

I don't have the $ to put into this engine right now. That's why I'm not doing much with it. I'll get this resleaved or repower it later. I'd rather take the K161 from the 72 for the O and put the 14 hp in the 72 if it comes to that. I'm not particular in that it doesn't get modified but I'd like to keep it as close as I can to how they rolled off the line.

C5rider · #20 05-30-2013, 03:12 PM

My one Original's steering wheel was installed by the Hulk. It was TIGHT!

i used a pulley puller with a good bit of pressure on the shaft. i tighten it just about to the point where it'll let go somewhere, then I smack the puller with a pretty good sized hammer. It may make some guys shiver on here, but I've smacked it pretty good to get 'em to move sometimes.

I've heard of guys just using their knees and tapping with a hammer. I'm envious.

Once you've got that puller tight (I mean TIGHT) and smack it with the hammer, it's amazing what moves! Just my experience. Your mileage may vary.

Good luck.