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  #11  
Old 05-04-2013, 03:13 PM
rweaver rweaver is offline
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since its under the oil line I would just replace the tranny case if it was a gear drive then I would repair it the tranny units are cheap and not hard to find
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  #12  
Old 05-04-2013, 04:21 PM
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I would do the repair by drilling deeper and taping then install a stud and braze it in place.
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:16 AM
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charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Default cast Iron bolt hole temporary repair

Plan is to drill the damaged hole deeper, or all the way through the casting, use a longer bolt,
or use a stud with "stud & bearing mount". My concern is; how to drill the hole straight and keep it aligned.
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:36 AM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlie105 View Post
Plan is to drill the damaged hole deeper, or all the way through the casting, use a longer bolt,
or use a stud with "stud & bearing mount". My concern is; how to drill the hole straight and keep it aligned.
I would use a drill bit that will just go through a 5/16" threaded nut that will use the threads as a pilot without destroying them. Then tap the the deeper hole. Install a stud.

I'd then cover the exposed threaded stud with JB or similar and let it harden. I don't think you have to worry about pulling the stud out unless you just got ham fisted on the wrench when you tighten the cover.

Among other stuructural repairs I've done with JB is to glue the front of a Chevy BB head back together after it had gotten shattered in 7-8 pieces in a headon collision. That was at least 25 years ago and it's never caused a problem since.

Hope I don't offend any "real" mechanics with this advice!
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  #15  
Old 05-05-2013, 08:52 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike McKown View Post
I would use a drill bit that will just go through a 5/16" threaded nut that will use the threads as a pilot without destroying them. Then tap the the deeper hole. Install a stud.

I'd then cover the exposed threaded stud with JB or similar and let it harden. I don't think you have to worry about pulling the stud out unless you just got ham fisted on the wrench when you tighten the cover.

Among other stuructural repairs I've done with JB is to glue the front of a Chevy BB head back together after it had gotten shattered in 7-8 pieces in a headon collision. That was at least 25 years ago and it's never caused a problem since.

Hope I don't offend any "real" mechanics with this advice!
Mike

I suggested the same thing when he posted in another thread but my suggestion was dismissed. What do I know.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=24030&page=2 see post #17
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2013, 10:06 AM
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Sam; Rest assured, I don't dismiss your suggestions. What I finally end up doing will be a combination of everything posted here. Thanks to everyone who contributed to these posts!
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  #17  
Old 05-05-2013, 10:13 AM
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Sam; Rest assured, I don't dismiss your suggestions. What I finally end up doing will be a combination of everything posted here. Thanks to everyone who contributed to these posts!
Know somebody with a 3/4" or 1" piece of steel and a drill press? Drill a 5/16" hole thru that piece steel.

Put the drill bit in the broken hole and use it to line up the hole in the piece of steel. Using the other bolt holes, clamp the steel in place. If the drill bit still slides in the steel drill guide and the broken hole, you're lined up. If it binds, readjust until it slides.

Now you can drill the hole and keep the proper location.
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  #18  
Old 05-05-2013, 01:04 PM
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Slick! Thanks.
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  #19  
Old 05-05-2013, 04:18 PM
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Charlie
Something else you may want to consider is drilling a ¼” hole about 1” above and below the broken hole and tap it ¼’ -20 obviously you need the drill the hole in the casting smaller. If you go that route put the cover back on and drill through the cover and the casting with the proper size drill for the tap at the same time then drill the1/4” holes in the cover.
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2013, 03:56 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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I would put it back together with the "glue" of your choice on the cover and gasket, if it doesn't leak then you are good, if it does then, I really hafta agree with Ray. Stop messing around with it and find yourself another good used one, bolt your old one out, bolt the new one in and go. Hydro drive rear ends are cheap and there are lots of them around.
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