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  #11  
Old 04-10-2013, 08:28 AM
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Kelpie Kelpie is offline
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Well, now it's more confusing. I checked the connections, and now I get 12 volts at the battery and now the s/g has 12 volts WITHOUT the starter button being pushed, but the S/G does not turn over.

I recharged the battery and it will only take about a 68% charge. I'm thinking that maybe the s/g, and the starter switch are messed up, not to mention a bad battery.

Probably will take the s/g and the voltage regulator into the shop tomorrow to get them checked out.
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  #12  
Old 04-10-2013, 01:56 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Stop all the nonsence... Isolate the problem before you waste any more time or money.

Hook jumper cables or a boost box directly to the S/G to see if that is the problem or not (positive to the "A" terminal, negative to a bolt holding the S/G on, negative is the last connection). If the S/G spins the engine over well, your your problem is in the wiring, switch, or (most probably) with your grounds.

If the S/G is good and a new direct ground wire doesn't help, then using your test light or meter start from the battery and check each connection until you get to where the voltage loss is. It really is that simple.

BTW, your battery should be showing 12.5 volts or more.

I don't think I would ever buy one of the new S/G's that are advertised on ebay, take your old S/G's to a repair shop and have them rebuilt, if your old one is beyond repair, buy a used on from someone and, worst case, have it rebuilt. I'm betting that you will never find the quality in a new unit that you have with an older one.
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  #13  
Old 04-10-2013, 02:07 PM
mattoney mattoney is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelpie View Post
I heard that it's better to rebuild than to buy a new one as the new ones are not like the originals. Anyone know of a good shop in Indianapolis that can repair it?
If you do end up going the rebuilt route, my Starter/Generator had a label on it from Mooresville Alternator on it. I'm guessing they rebuilt my s/g at one point.

If you find someone else, and you're happy with their service, please let me know!
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2013, 03:00 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Mark is right....here is a simple diagram

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  #15  
Old 04-10-2013, 04:02 PM
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Well, the s/g won't turn even being directly hooked up to a battery.

Looks like rebuild is in my future. Not too bad for never having been worked on in nearly 50 years. Found a place near downtown Indy that can do it.
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  #16  
Old 04-12-2013, 03:54 PM
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Dropped off the s/g to be rebuilt today. Should have it back on Monday.
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  #17  
Old 04-12-2013, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelpie View Post
Dropped off the s/g to be rebuilt today. Should have it back on Monday.
That's great, you'll be ready to go!
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  #18  
Old 04-13-2013, 07:48 PM
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I question the 11.9 volts !!
A fully charged battery is 12.6V.
How does it start with a set of jumpers connected directly to the S/G from another vehicle, I.E. car/truck???????
That will confirm either a S/G problem or a battery /wiring problem.
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  #19  
Old 04-13-2013, 08:41 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Just had one rebuilt by the shop in Cedar Rapids. Have to pick it up Monday.$66.35 tax incl.

Dave S
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  #20  
Old 04-15-2013, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
I question the 11.9 volts !!
A fully charged battery is 12.6V.
How does it start with a set of jumpers connected directly to the S/G from another vehicle, I.E. car/truck???????
That will confirm either a S/G problem or a battery /wiring problem.
It didn't do anything when hooked up to a good battery. The shop also checked it and got nothing and suspect bad brushes. I think the battery is bad because it would only charge to 68% at 12 volts.
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