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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#11
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I used a harmonic balancer puller. I put the puller over the center, marked 2 spots in the metal splined part and drilled and tapped two 10-24 holes at a slight outward angle ,( so the 2 bolts would fit in the puller slots ). Then with the appropiate bolts and washers , and protective cap on forcing screw, ( to protect threads on column ) it came right off. I did soak it with penatrating oil 1st, and a little heat for good measure and with handtools it came off. Makes it real easy next time. BTW, mine is a 104. I presume others are similar. I personally didn't like hammering on the column. Matt G's idea is excellent also.
Chris
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1968 104 , service replacement '96 K301, 42" deck 1997 Scotts 42502X8 , repowered with '96 B&S 18hp TwinII , 42" deck 2007 LA130,21hp Intek v-twin, 48" deck As you slide down the banister of Life, may the splinters point in the right direction .
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#12
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I've tried several methods and so far no luck.
![]() I even managed to damage my wheel. ![]()
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#13
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I am not expert, far from it. Was able to get the steering wheel off my 108, a 149 and a 1650. Was NOT able to get the wheel off my 72. Damaged the shaft threads in the process. Gave up, pulled the cover off the gearbox without removing the entire assembly, reground the follower stud, regreased it, replaced the seal and reassembled and adjusted it. It worked fine. Had to epoxy the acorn nut on to the steering column as the threads were too damaged to screw the nut on. Should last a few years.
The only reason you NEED to remove the steering wheel if is the bearings are shot--and of the ones I've rebuilt, the bearings were still perfect and replacement was unnecessary. So unless there is up/down play in the steering, I'd venture that removal is not required to get the gear working properly.
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#14
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I got it off!!!!!
![]() Three weeks soaking in PB blaster and it's off! It came off kinda oddly. I was just attaching the puller and as I was tightening it by hand it just popped off. ![]() ![]() ![]() 10 minutes later I had the dash and tower off, column off, and front wheels off. Progress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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#15
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Happy ending is a good thing LOL
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#16
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Good for you glad it came right off. As for ruining your th
reads that's why you screw the nut on so you don't . Also if you can't get it off after soaking it and hitting it with a lump hammer your going to break everything below if you hit it with a sledge. Another cub guy told me he puts a bolt in his air chisel after soaking it in pb blaster for couple of days and vibrates it off. Only thing I can say is destroyed my wheel using a jaw puller. Any cub I get from now on I will use the 5/8s bolt method with hammer or with air chisel. Good luck to everyone trying
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#17
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I am happy that the wheel came off. When you put it back together, it is good to use an ample amount of Anti-Seize grease on the splines. That way, the next time you need to pull the steering wheel, it will be a whole lot easier job.
Good luck with your repairs. |
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#18
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Quote:
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#19
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Glad you got the steering wheel off, and made some progress!
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Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator |
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#20
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thanks everyone!
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Owner of: cub 1650 cub 122 |
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