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#11
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OK I got the cover off. Please excuse my lack of know how but this is the first transmission I've taken apart so I don't know what I'm really looking or feeling for
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#12
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Here's what I'm looking at. Thanks
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#13
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Your shifter fork is bent and about to break.
It's easy fix you'll have to pull the rear cover and reduction housing to fix it once get the replacement fork. Our fine sponsors or a want ad will be able to hook you up.
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#14
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Thanks Methos,
I think I noticed the bent fork as the same time that you spotted it, I tried to straiten the fork and see if that simple fix would work then I would have placed a small tack weld to the outside of the prong to support it also I didn't see any cracks in it unless I'm looking at wrong part. (hey it's already broke right) Anyway movement didn't change in the least, so could something else be hung up that affecting the movement that I should be looking for before I order parts. So if there is anyone knows where a tutorial is for a fork transplant please let me Know.+ part numbers. Thank you all for the help. |
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#15
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I wish I had a better pic to show you of the inside of my 124's tranny, but you can see there is something more going on in yours, I think. My 124 broke its shifter rod (how can a 1/2 inch rod break?). I still think that you have a fairly easy fix at this point.
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#16
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Check out this thread. It may give you some more info. Has good pics and fork discussion.
No Reverse or 1st Gear, looking for input From 10-12-2012
__________________
John Proud Owner of a Model 100 and a Model 124. A homemade cart, 2 x 42" mower decks, a 38" deck, a 42" front NF blade, and a lawn sweeper! |
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#17
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You may be in two gears at the same time or the fork that isn't in gear could be off center causing it to be "jambed up", for lack of better words.
Normally when the forks break, the crack is in the very thin part where the bolt goes through or underneath the rod at the end of the slot, often times very difficult to see without taking the fork out. Try to position the forks so that the two "notches" where the end of the shifter should be create a little box so the ball on the end of the shifter can't come out. That is the neutral position, once it is "N" it should once again be easy to shift as it was before. Still probably have to remove the fork to replace or repair it though... Might want to take them both out to inspect them. Gotta find neutral first though.
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More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
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#18
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Hey Sam,
I was thinking the same that something was all jumbled up. So after a very frustrating day I cleaned up and organized my mess with the benefit of pulling the vehicles out of the weather. Long story short This afternoon I was moving the transmission on the floor jack to a work space to take off the rear cover. One hand on the Jack the other on the shift handle when I heard and felt the sound of a smooth click of the tranny going into 1st. gear sure enough all the other gears followed suit. I don't think I should just except that all is well but I am tempted. Before I put the cover back on last night I was able to easily tighten the visible bolts about a half turn I think I could have gone tighter but I don't want to strip out or over torque them if they have a specific foot pound of torque. I would love to hear some thoughts on this. Also before I button this up I am going to take a pic of what the fork placements look like in each gear, I think might be helpful to others. |
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#19
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I hope these will help someone out just trying to give back
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#20
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Ahh, very good! Sounds like things are starting to go the right direction for you.
Personally, I would check the forks for cracks in the "weak spots" before I buttoned it back up. When the trans is in neutral there is a "little box" where the ball on the end of the shifter goes, notice that when it is shifted (into any gear) the sides of the "little box" never get in a position where the ball can get out. Also, VERY IMPORTAND, make sure that the sides of the "little box" where the ball on the end of the shifter goes, are bent very straight with each other. If they are bent (even a little) crooked, then that little ball will try to escape, and you will be back here again. Truthfully... If it were mine, while I was it there, I would probably take the forks out, check them for problems and weld them so they can't bend again. But that's just me... I'm lazy as "heck" and wouldn't want to have to do it again later. Good Luck
__________________
More IH Cub Cadet Parts RIGHT HERE |
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